Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Random car broken wtf problem.

Turbo howls when in vacuum (between -10mmhg and 0) and then stops at about 6psi and then sounds normal.

No, it is not the exhaust drowning it out.

How can this be a thing.

All I have done is tighten the v-band that is connected to the external gate (which is off the housing), but the problem happens at a point where the gate isn't even in play.

I don't really know what it is, pretty confident there's no boost leaks (sadly I have become very very very intimate with my charge pipes and clamps and silicon joiners and they are all replaced).

Just sounds like a big WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO as its spooling but no sound when actually making boost. The car sounds naturally aspirated from 7psi to 25psi which is really quite weird feeling. Just very much when the turbo is spinning up, but I wouldn't say its surge because you can hear the turbo spinning *down* after you come off throttle and you are around -15/20mmhg, which is just flat out strange.

In b4 turbine blown out of exhaust or compressor wheel in intake valves, but of course both the wheels look perfect and have no play.

so you've inspected the exhaust side of the turbo after the noise started?

Sounded like a manifold leak but not ticking, just a weird... sound. Could actually be an exhaust leak from the actual exhaust because I may have hit the flex join on a few things but you know, check everything.

Fixed hose clamp going to gate from exhaust housing on turbo. You could move the band around previously so clearly it could be better sealed. Removed and new bolt after cutting the original bolt off with a hacksaw because long story.

Howly sound and better feeling engine/spool so assumed fixed.

Just makes a loud sound now. Didn't make any kind of sound before fixing the vband. Maybe always broken. Maybe not.

Dropped dump pipe and intake, had a look, spun wheels around, clearly not making contact and all the fins appear to be intact, etc.

Its more the intermittent nature of it that makes no sense, I've had leaks and manifold to turbo gaskets go etc, and it SOUNDS like that but all of those don't mysteriously stop making sound at 7psi.

I will borrow a gopro and make a video cause everything on the net seems to imply it shouldn't be possible, but hey, not like the limits of reality has ever contained this car's ongoing problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...