Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lets put it this way... 6 months ago you were tossing up if you should get an $1800 big brake kit, or just $700 on new rotors and pads...

You chose the new rotors and pads as it was more cost effective.

These sorts of decisions aren't possible in a 1000hp build, you just have to keep throwing money at until you reach the goal, or go broke.

the chips must be crunchy and fresh, and be consistently warm throughout.
cheese should have an even coverage, and melted into the chips. alot of places use mozarella for some reason, which is a big downer for me.
best to use a sharp cheddar, as it breaks up the meat, garlic etc

the meat should be about 3mm thick, and moist.
avoid places that use meat left in a bain marie, that meat is essentially steaming in there.
and finally, the sauce.
its completely up to you, but i prefer garlic with a little BBQ. the sweetness is nice, no chilli because that shit makes me shit like an animal (on the side of the road, in parks, on simons door step)

let me know where you go.
i might come out for one lol

IN Sydney, so unless your planning another road trip.

normally go the garlic and BBQ on a kebab, thinking might add chilli on this however.

bunch of kebab sores near here just gotta find one that looks dodgy enough to be good.

(and not have the horrifically processed meat)

Low expectations

Pretty much this

I don't get the craze, I only got one or two of them to be a part of it because I'm not a hipster douchebag

You feel sick after consuming 80% of it

And it's shit meat anyway

Kebabs are better

Y'all really need to try one without processed meat and actual lamb.

greek style.

also,

TV2 up another 20% today, by lunch time.

Aka a meat platter / sampler from a Greek joint

I commit to these on the regular

Aka a meat platter / sampler from a Greek joint

I commit to these on the regular

You been to Kalemira? tis down your way

I just buy those meatpacks from Safeway cold food section.

Or those pre-cooked cheese burgers you can get in the frozen section.

Mmmm

pls die

Y'all really need to try one without processed meat and actual lamb.

greek style.

also,

TV2 up another 20% today, by lunch time.

20% of 5 cents is 1 cent M9

lern2invest

Ever tried those canned cow tongues? It's like budget oysters. Just don't tell your guests what it is.

Sprinkle same kale on it or something with some imitation jus drizzled on the plate.

People love to be adventurous, especially when they don't know they are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...