Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Damn, that sucks. But even if you do a basic inspection of the second hand goods you wind up like birds waiting 12months for barry

My kinder surprise was an overly shaved head that was way too high comp and some rough machining on the deck...machinist took forever to get around to it. Not at all saying my man hasn't sidelined his engine builds for drive in drive out mechanical type work, but that's been a major hold up for us. Talk is end of the year for completion so fingers crossed.

But yeah luck of the draw with second hand engines. Have to ask yourself; there's usually a reason the engine is for sale - either the car got thrashed out and trying to offload problems, a part out (why?) or stacked, in which case strong possibility of a hard life pre-stack too. Lot of shit engines out there. My seller didn't lie about having issues with the engine before I bought it - it was worth more in parts than what I paid for it, which is why I took the risk. On the bright side I got a chance to make it powerful and near bulletproof.

54 minutes ago, BBGTR said:

Has anyone got any recommendations now Mick has hung up the spray gun?. I want to do a windows out full car respray with my 32.

Andrew

I can recommend my panelbeater if you want to PM me. Just had a respray done by him and I'm very happy with the job. He does a lot of hotrods and muscle cars and those guys are pretty fussy. Very passionate about his work and it shows, but he's always got a full shop so could be a wait.

1 hour ago, Birds said:

My kinder surprise was an overly shaved head that was way too high comp and some rough machining on the deck...machinist took forever to get around to it. Not at all saying my man hasn't sidelined his engine builds for drive in drive out mechanical type work, but that's been a major hold up for us. Talk is end of the year for completion so fingers crossed.

But yeah luck of the draw with second hand engines. Have to ask yourself; there's usually a reason the engine is for sale - either the car got thrashed out and trying to offload problems, a part out (why?) or stacked, in which case strong possibility of a hard life pre-stack too. Lot of shit engines out there. My seller didn't lie about having issues with the engine before I bought it - it was worth more in parts than what I paid for it, which is why I took the risk. On the bright side I got a chance to make it powerful and near bulletproof.



The word Bulletproof should never be written on the same page as an RB, let alone to describe an RB!

If anyone is bored, drifting live streaming from Sydney:
http://live.worldtimeattack.com/

Keiichi "Drift King" Tsuchiya says hi

5801fa05a96a2_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

10,000 people here. Not bad. Sydneys reputation for bogans holds true.
  • Like 2
26 minutes ago, Borci88 said:



The word Bulletproof should never be written on the same page as an RB, let alone to describe an RB!

I said bulletproof not starvation proof lol

21 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:


Keiichi "Drift King" Tsuchiya says hi

5801fa05a96a2_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

10,000 people here. Not bad. Sydneys reputation for bogans holds true.

pretty good live coverage, apart from the 10mins of ads just before 

P plate Golf R gave the toot of acknowledgement after dropping behind in a rolling - is this the first non D-bag Golf owner in the history of the world?

 

 

You don't count, Hamish

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...