Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Scabies leave trails on your skin as they burrow and are itchy nearly 24/7. You end up with them all over your body too. Bed bugs/mites will just bite you (not sure if they lay eggs under skin like scabies?). You'll soon know either way. The hottest of hot baths doesn't kill them, only rubbing yourself with insecticide...over every square mm of your body...yes in there...will completely eliminate.

And yes old mate google the hypochondriac. Put in itchy arm bite and you get some frostbite ridden decaying limb pic. The health websites aren't much good either with their symptomatic descriptions that match up to...I don't know...f**king everything

- Headache

- Dizziness

- Nausea

- Weakness/tiredness

- Loss of appetite

My engine let go again.
 

Congealed exhaust gas in coolant looks like poo.
It's noticeably different from coolant and oil mixing, which I have also seen within the last 10,000kms.

 

  • Like 1

I think more like stock motor and never ever open the motor in any case at all.
And some responsive Borg Warner thing on the side of it.

Or who knows, maybe just put an OEM gasket back on what's currently there, unless the block is cracked or there's a portal to the underworld when they remove the head which is entirely likely.

Drove Grant's car the other day; motor felt very healthy. How is it that a guy who can't even hear his engine can keep it in better nick than you Greg :4_joy:

  • Like 2
I think more like stock motor and never ever open the motor in any case at all.
And some responsive Borg Warner thing on the side of it.

Or who knows, maybe just put an OEM gasket back on what's currently there, unless the block is cracked or there's a portal to the underworld when they remove the head which is entirely likely.


Don't have to open the motor to put studs in.
26 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

Perhaps listen to a few of the concerns and suggestions that the engine builder had at the time when he built your motor

I have, every time which is why they were so confused when it arrived back on their doorstep yesterday..
Eliminating things that are "custom" is now my primary goal here. I wonder if things like Scotty's turbo housing/gate/manifold setup causes heat/backpressure/something (maybe it does at 400rwkw at 4000rpm....)

Perhaps the traction control system doesn't work as cleanly as advertised..


Perhaps the metal head gasket didn't seal despite the block and head being super straight and super polished by the machine shop that did it (that also built the engine)


Perhaps the 'custom pistons' that were ordered and sized up for the kit way way back when by someone who was grossly incompetent is causing these fun and games too..

But power was turned down to about 320kw. Given I was pretty happy with that, a standard Neo will be finding its way to that engine bay because I'm really not a fan of "perhaps" (even if something becomes immediately clear as the problem, like last time).

3 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I wonder if things like Scotty's turbo housing/gate/manifold setup causes heat/backpressure/something
 

I believe this was brought up as a concern when your engine was built :1310_thumbsup_tone1:

I've had my engine for 3.5 years now and still going strong, only issue was a blocked injector due to e85.

Internally your engine and mine probably same same except for the 2.8 stroker

 

It was, because back then I had a GTX3076R then with a .82 rear, I took the recommendation and went with a much larger rear to open the whole thing up. Also opened up the intake which would have been contributing to that problem (and picked up 45rwkw lol). But it's possible that the damage had been done, but seeing an engine roll over up top, or an exhaust housing go slightly red doesn't usually result in a blown head gasket. I have never actually run the GTX3076R for longer than about an hour before I changed to a free flowing rear.


And since then the head was lifting under boost (wrong head studs supplied way back then, and re-used by current builder because "ARP studs are reusable". This was discovered when I bought a new gasket and studs because I didn't trust the internet when they said you can re-use metal head gaskets and ARP studs.

And what do you know, the old ones were about 25mm bigger.
Then the block cracked literally 2 days after that was assembled, full rebuild since then, with all the recommendations made, followed.
 

I directly followed recommendations of people around me... because when you have problems you start looking at people who do not have problems to see where the differences lie...

As to what failed this time, no one is sure yet, other than it's exhaust gases in the coolant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...