Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Scabies leave trails on your skin as they burrow and are itchy nearly 24/7. You end up with them all over your body too. Bed bugs/mites will just bite you (not sure if they lay eggs under skin like scabies?). You'll soon know either way. The hottest of hot baths doesn't kill them, only rubbing yourself with insecticide...over every square mm of your body...yes in there...will completely eliminate.

And yes old mate google the hypochondriac. Put in itchy arm bite and you get some frostbite ridden decaying limb pic. The health websites aren't much good either with their symptomatic descriptions that match up to...I don't know...f**king everything

- Headache

- Dizziness

- Nausea

- Weakness/tiredness

- Loss of appetite

My engine let go again.
 

Congealed exhaust gas in coolant looks like poo.
It's noticeably different from coolant and oil mixing, which I have also seen within the last 10,000kms.

 

  • Like 1

I think more like stock motor and never ever open the motor in any case at all.
And some responsive Borg Warner thing on the side of it.

Or who knows, maybe just put an OEM gasket back on what's currently there, unless the block is cracked or there's a portal to the underworld when they remove the head which is entirely likely.

Drove Grant's car the other day; motor felt very healthy. How is it that a guy who can't even hear his engine can keep it in better nick than you Greg :4_joy:

  • Like 2
I think more like stock motor and never ever open the motor in any case at all.
And some responsive Borg Warner thing on the side of it.

Or who knows, maybe just put an OEM gasket back on what's currently there, unless the block is cracked or there's a portal to the underworld when they remove the head which is entirely likely.


Don't have to open the motor to put studs in.
26 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

Perhaps listen to a few of the concerns and suggestions that the engine builder had at the time when he built your motor

I have, every time which is why they were so confused when it arrived back on their doorstep yesterday..
Eliminating things that are "custom" is now my primary goal here. I wonder if things like Scotty's turbo housing/gate/manifold setup causes heat/backpressure/something (maybe it does at 400rwkw at 4000rpm....)

Perhaps the traction control system doesn't work as cleanly as advertised..


Perhaps the metal head gasket didn't seal despite the block and head being super straight and super polished by the machine shop that did it (that also built the engine)


Perhaps the 'custom pistons' that were ordered and sized up for the kit way way back when by someone who was grossly incompetent is causing these fun and games too..

But power was turned down to about 320kw. Given I was pretty happy with that, a standard Neo will be finding its way to that engine bay because I'm really not a fan of "perhaps" (even if something becomes immediately clear as the problem, like last time).

3 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I wonder if things like Scotty's turbo housing/gate/manifold setup causes heat/backpressure/something
 

I believe this was brought up as a concern when your engine was built :1310_thumbsup_tone1:

I've had my engine for 3.5 years now and still going strong, only issue was a blocked injector due to e85.

Internally your engine and mine probably same same except for the 2.8 stroker

 

It was, because back then I had a GTX3076R then with a .82 rear, I took the recommendation and went with a much larger rear to open the whole thing up. Also opened up the intake which would have been contributing to that problem (and picked up 45rwkw lol). But it's possible that the damage had been done, but seeing an engine roll over up top, or an exhaust housing go slightly red doesn't usually result in a blown head gasket. I have never actually run the GTX3076R for longer than about an hour before I changed to a free flowing rear.


And since then the head was lifting under boost (wrong head studs supplied way back then, and re-used by current builder because "ARP studs are reusable". This was discovered when I bought a new gasket and studs because I didn't trust the internet when they said you can re-use metal head gaskets and ARP studs.

And what do you know, the old ones were about 25mm bigger.
Then the block cracked literally 2 days after that was assembled, full rebuild since then, with all the recommendations made, followed.
 

I directly followed recommendations of people around me... because when you have problems you start looking at people who do not have problems to see where the differences lie...

As to what failed this time, no one is sure yet, other than it's exhaust gases in the coolant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.  
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...