Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jesus! That 32R is ruined! Body looked destroyed and 245 000 kms? Jesus, damn thing has been to the moon and back (ok no quite, but it has gone a crazy long way). If that car were mine, i'd be looking to part it out. 

Still that that 33R will sell in the range of 40k (i think). Which given it's a high km car is still a considerable amount.

55k? No i don't think so. And this whole having two gauge clusters is a pain in the backside. In the end of my search, anyone who wasn't 100% clear on the gauges and kms was cut out of my search. If you can't be honest and clear about how many kms the car has done, what else are you skimming over?

 

To me gotta be practical, space for work stuff, riding gear, tow bar etc. 

Also gotta have some decent tech built in, not the 'boy racer pioneer headunits' :P Sounds simple but bluetooth integration alone is great, oh and cruise control even, didn't get any of that on my old GTR!

Edited by UNR33L
Driving a less enjoyable toy car because worried about what anonymous people may think instead of being comfortable and saying "I enjoy driving enjoyable cars"
k


Keep 'driving' your 'enjoyable' car then ..
  • Like 1
Just now, HEKT1K said:

 


Keep 'driving' your 'enjoyable' car then ..

 

I can, and do.

See also: Comfortable heterosexual man enjoying driving MX5 with no power.

Cars as status symbols? Embarrassing no matter how you explain it away.

Quote

Cars as status symbols? Embarrassing no matter how you explain it away.

Yep, this...

If I had a dollar every time someone proved themselves to be a**holes cause they think you drive a shitty car, I could afford two more coffees today!

My favorite are the ones who claim to own a supercar or other cool car, and then when you call them out have no idea what they are talking about.

My wife managed to call out a "Ferrari" owner once in a bank. Dude was trying to pick her up, going on about his Ferrari. She was like: "oh what model, cause we have an M5 and it's pretty fast". He was stupid enough to carry on with his lie and was like: "oh you know the turbo one" (this was pre- California T and 488). She automatically assumed he owned something from the 80s. When queried, he couldn't name a single 80s model... Genius.

He ended up admitting he didn't actually own it (whatever "it" was), but he would one day... yeah, alright mate, of course you will.

14 hours ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

I'd take a golf R or audi RS3 over any boy racer looking shit any day. If I'm going to spend 60 large on a car I want to look like an adult not a child.

Adults are obsolete children

2 hours ago, Steve85 said:

Jesus! That 32R is ruined! Body looked destroyed and 245 000 kms? Jesus, damn thing has been to the moon and back (ok no quite, but it has gone a crazy long way). If that car were mine, i'd be looking to part it out. 

Still that that 33R will sell in the range of 40k (i think). Which given it's a high km car is still a considerable amount.

55k? No i don't think so. And this whole having two gauge clusters is a pain in the backside. In the end of my search, anyone who wasn't 100% clear on the gauges and kms was cut out of my search. If you can't be honest and clear about how many kms the car has done, what else are you skimming over?

 

Gauge/cluster doesn't come into my consideration at all when buying a car, unless it's stupidly high and indicates heavy use.

You can't trust the cars let alone the owners and most car owners don't know shit about their cars anyway. I've dealt with some great and honest people, and also some shifty/dodgy looking people and some of my best finds have oddly come from the latter.

But lol, the number of people selling cars who I've actually helped diagnose engine and gearbox problems for...

Just go over everything yourself, do the comp tests etc. and / or get stateroads to inspect I say.

  • Like 1

Well for me it came into it because I wanted to have a documented, low km car.
That said condition was more important, but i wanted both and so paid for that (literally).

I personally think that a low km car in good condition, that can be proved, will appreciate to a higher point than something without paperwork.

Just my 2 cents though. I guess we'll know in a few more years.

Also I agree with you about the some owners...

A small part of me admires people who have the guts to just pull something apart that they don't understand or have any info on.

Most of me thinks this is insane.

3 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

Also I agree with you about the some owners...

A small part of me admires people who have the guts to just pull something apart that they don't understand or have any info on.

Most of me thinks this is insane.

Best way to learn...

Also nothing motivates you like "you won't get to work tomorrow if you don't fix this tonight"

When I worked at a workshop and did things to my car, if I didn't fix it that night I wouldn't make it home lol...never once got stuck there...

Just now, Birds said:

Best way to learn...

To a point though...

Don't strip the electrics out of your car, if you don't own a soldering iron and a pair of crimpers.

Make sure you have the right tools and some idea of what you are doing and how things generally come apart and go back together.

^That's what my mind says to me anyhow...

38 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

Yep, this...

If I had a dollar every time someone proved themselves to be a**holes cause they think you drive a shitty car, I could afford two more coffees today!

My favorite are the ones who claim to own a supercar or other cool car, and then when you call them out have no idea what they are talking about.

My wife managed to call out a "Ferrari" owner once in a bank. Dude was trying to pick her up, going on about his Ferrari. She was like: "oh what model, cause we have an M5 and it's pretty fast". He was stupid enough to carry on with his lie and was like: "oh you know the turbo one" (this was pre- California T and 488). She automatically assumed he owned something from the 80s. When queried, he couldn't name a single 80s model... Genius.

He ended up admitting he didn't actually own it (whatever "it" was), but he would one day... yeah, alright mate, of course you will.

There's points to both sides of this. I am fortunate that my employers don't care what car I drive. However, there are some industries where a car is no different to a suit and will be used to judge your success and personality even if the assumptions are off-point. I don't envy these - it's a job expense as far as I'm concerned. You wear an ill-fitting cheap suit and it rubs off on your image, ala Hamish if he were to drive a 33 again...in spite of the gingham shirt. And if Alex drove around in anything less than a Lexus people might think real estate agents aren't pretentious dbags and we can't have that.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...