Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah they do an estimate based on previous usage every 3 months, only do a real check every 12 months or so and then do a top up.

 

I had the opposite in the past when I started traveling for work, usage dropped massively and ended up with a decent credit.

2 hours ago, HEKT1K said:

Went to a travel agent for the first time today, to see if I was missing out on the best deals etc

Travel agent: "Where's Skopje?"

nope

And when you been waiting and do a follow up with them forgetting to call you back with their deals.... "I forgot" 

Just got a gas bill more than 3x of any bill in the last 12months, the charges go all the way to step-3 off peak.
 
Only gas appliances are heater and hot water. Heater is disconnected electrically and was serviced in winter. I was away from home 4 nights a week from Jan to Feb, then overseas for a month.
I'm reading that sometimes gas companies to 'catch-up' bills if they get their estimation wrong?
I'll check the gas meter when I get home, but if the figures are similar, ain't shit I can do?
 
Went from 27MJ a day to 147MJ a day. No leaks that I know of...
 
 

Old man had the same issue where his bill tripled in one month. He just didn't pay it until they came out and did a reading. Turns out they got their measurement units confused and over calculated it.
36 minutes ago, Mohsen said:

also how the f**k do i set up boost Ts?

you need a boost gauge.

cut your actuator vacc line in half. put boost tee on eitherside of cut vacc line. Set to like 1-2 turns off lowest setting. drive. note down boost. adjust accordingly.

44 minutes ago, Mohsen said:

boys boys boys.

whos got a metal intake pipe to suit rb25 laying around? trying to get the stag to rip massive VL spec doses lmao
also how the f**k do i set up boost Ts?

Got one here if you want to buy.

3 hours ago, Mohsen said:

boys boys boys.

whos got a metal intake pipe to suit rb25 laying around? trying to get the stag to rip massive VL spec doses lmao
also how the f**k do i set up boost Ts?

does anyone in this forum have anything to do with cars these days?

7 minutes ago, alr33x said:

does anyone in this forum have anything to do with cars these days?

its only you and hamo who dont do cars no more.

I commented on something on facebook and the notorious Krysztof got butthurt. Am I getting him confused with that guy that is a living punchline in VWL?

3 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

you need a boost gauge.

cut your actuator vacc line in half. put boost tee on eitherside of cut vacc line. Set to like 1-2 turns off lowest setting. drive. note down boost. adjust accordingly.

done. 30psi TONIGHT

3 hours ago, Down_Shift said:

Got one here if you want to buy.

the question is, will it flutter like central park does if you walk through it with some bread?
how much. will pay top dollar for something dodgy as f**k.

7 minutes ago, alr33x said:

does anyone in this forum have anything to do with cars these days?

a few of us still do, but it feels like were all in exile.
maybe one day we will unite and power will be restored.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Mohsen said:

boys boys boys.

whos got a metal intake pipe to suit rb25 laying around? trying to get the stag to rip massive VL spec doses lmao
also how the f**k do i set up boost Ts?

Use K&H bumper black spray (the one for 80's black bumpers) and it looks like a stock part works a treat

  • Like 1
29 minutes ago, alr33x said:

does anyone in this forum have anything to do with cars these days?

I might when the Kia Stinger GT is released as that think will need maybe exhaust/boost/tune

totally getting me one

7 minutes ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

I might when the Kia Stinger GT is released as that think will need maybe exhaust/boost/tune

totally getting me one

yeah i saw some photos of them they look pretty decent actually

im thinking of upgrading but then i feel its a waste of money so meh.. probably gonna end up buying something lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...