Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

56 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

You barely mod your soobaroo, with $10k and nos, you could earn your Mrs respect

True, my cars "Build" usually consist of intake,exhaust,tune,rims,coilovers job done. 

Too poor (sensible?) for anything else. You should put a big APR wang on the Gloria, f**k the haters. 

Edited by UNR33L

Can confirm living in Glen Waverley, hondas and other P plate cars (86's oh god 86's everywhere) still around droning everywhere which makes me happy.

You'd have to expect HWY to be dominated by XR6T's, I mean think about it it's a cheap readily available 4L turbo which is pretty terrible at anything that isn't pulls from 80kmh. Not going to find one of them at the top of a mountain of your choice.

21 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Yeah it's pretty sad prinny is fords day and night. Nothing interesting anymore. Don't even hear hondas at night near Wellington/stud rd

Still hear the odd RB though haha

On 11/14/2018 at 7:51 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Can confirm living in Glen Waverley, hondas and other P plate cars (86's oh god 86's everywhere) still around droning everywhere which makes me happy.

You'd have to expect HWY to be dominated by XR6T's, I mean think about it it's a cheap readily available 4L turbo which is pretty terrible at anything that isn't pulls from 80kmh. Not going to find one of them at the top of a mountain of your choice.

It's pretty much a competition of who's spent the most money at their tuner. Like a one-make series of racing, I don't see the point of interest - unless it's all about the driving, which it isn't - cause let's face it, they've taken as much skill and variance out of the equation as possible with only rolling drags and fast shift auto boxes. Off the line is the one instance the Skyline could stay on par because their ling longs can't grip up and good tyres aren't included as part of stage 4 at horsepower factory or whatever the dominant south east Aussie tuner is these days. It's playing in their bullpen - a RWD Skyline ain't the best choice for drags; I do well against most production cars and am constantly impressed by how well the old girl holds up. But in the modified scene, looking at how much Luke put in his GTS-T to knock on times that P platers are getting in turbo engine swapped Falcons...it's certainly humbling/boring.

The one thing I'll give them is that unlike most of my experiences with imports over the years, the Aussie sedans tend to acknowledge you win or lose. Versus that straight ahead stare pretending they don't have side windows...

Actualy I have to admit that, as much as I wanted to hang s*** on the Commodores or Falcons, if they got surprised by a 450kw auto 4 door sedan there were ALWAYS massive thumbs up out the sides of windows and such, on the rare occasion this occured on a private road etc.

But yeah, Prinny is literally made for XR6T's.

But in the modified scene, looking at how much Luke put in his GTS-T to knock on times that P platers are getting in turbo engine swapped Falcons...it's certainly humbling/boring.

What?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Went to Geelong Revival Festival (brought to you by Jaguar) on Saturday for a bit, was an alright show. Not as big as i remember from a few years ago.

The drag strip commentators were about 60 years old and weren't expecting a Ford Territory and a Jeep Cherokee to make top 5 spots.

Also, @emts. Got a spam email the other day that claimed to have hacked my "account" and the title of the email had an older password i use for single-use accounts on websites i dont use regularly. So they've used a keystroke tracker thingy but obviously havent hacked or accessed anything. Should I do anything? My email accounts dont use this password so I dont know how it got tracked to my main email, when I have a spam email address for all those sorts of websites/accounts.

Basically a site you used to use has been hacked. Very common

 

if you don’t use that password on other sites then all good

 

using a password manager that creates a random one is also a good idea 

Try punching your email addresses in here to see which it prob was

(try old addresses as well)

https://haveibeenpwned.com/

 

 

 

  • Like 1

So looking to my past payslips... Boss used to issue all my leave (20 days) in july, start of new financial year. Now it's changed to a gradual increase monthly system. But he hasn't said anything.

Is the bulk leave thing good business practice? I never really took leave and I can never make sense of some of my payslips, so just haven't really noticed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...