Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having been in a v cam 2.6, it would be about equal from 3500 ish compared to a 2.8. From the basement you can't hide cubes/stroke.

* very rough figures though.

There will be a comparison between the 2.6/v cam vs 2.8 using exactly the same turbo soon enough.

  • Like 2

They are still talking about Stroker Vs 26, they just do not agree. Hit him with your hand bag Joey :domokun:

I think Joey has been in enough different Rs to make an educated statement about strokers Vs 26, just do not get Piggaz started on strokers Vs 26 :woot: ​. Have a look at Piggaz car, stroker and a worked head.

From what I can work out , you like them or you don't , you like to rev them hard or you would rather have your car working earlier. It seems you can do this with both with the right mods, but I would imagine that with extra CCs a stroker has to be a little better.

Cutty, ask a few of these blokes if you can get a run in their cars. From my limited experience Dynos look impressive but until you drive them you do not get the full impact of how the car drives on the "street".

Cheers Pete,

Considering my first reply was a legitimate one, I can't help if people want to reply in that manner.

Anyway, I actually hate this expression but it does ring truth

"There's no replacement for displacement", seems these days more and more people are going stroker kits

  • Like 1

BA37A3EC-116D-401E-94E5-3ECBA3AD1AFB_zps

For a bloke that has never driven a stroker, you know a lot about the advantages of them, how they drive, blah blah.

Farken 2.6L junk. Bin it.

It has nothing to do with peak power. How can having more low to mid range twist be considered a bad thing?

  • Like 2

BA37A3EC-116D-401E-94E5-3ECBA3AD1AFB_zps

For a bloke that has never driven a stroker, you know a lot about the advantages of them, how they drive, blah blah.

Farken 2.6L junk. Bin it.

It has nothing to do with peak power. How can having more low to mid range twist be considered a bad thing?

A 28 is to a 30 what a 26 is to a 28

.... about...... Not rocket science is it. I have driven enough 30s in my time.

My LS2 had twist from idle and a found that as boring as shit, unless burnouts of course.

Mid range twist is for lazy c%&$ who want to brag about how fat their dyno sheets are so they don't have to change gears...... Suggestion...... Get an auto.

You guys are funny.

Can't wait for my TO4z setup to be on the road so I can thrash the f#@k out of it.

Edited by XGTRX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...