Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I was a member about 6 years ago and now I got myself a fresh import gtst so I'm back in the game.

Just received my 32 off the boat and was so excited to have another 32 in my life but... my joy was short lived.

After a initial drive, i noticed the car was losing power at random points and when i put the foot down it suddenly goes again and loses power again.

This was the first problem. second is when I had to stop behind another vehicle, at low rpm even with my foot down on the clutch, the car shut down completely so I had to quickly restart it.

I initially drove home and after the first 10 mins of problems, it behaved OK even in the evening when I took it out again and gave it a good run (That's what I thought it needed after being stationary fir a while)

This morning, I gave my new baby a wash and a wax and started the car to warm it up and went inside the house, 5 mins later I went out again because it was too quiet, but to my surprise and horror, the car shut down by itself....

I attempted to start it and it did, for about 5 seconds and RPM dropped and died. this repeated about 3 times before I left it alone for about 10 mins before attempting it again.

10 mins later it started after I put my foot down and it somehow managed to stay alive. I went for a drive and just around the corner when I stopped at an intersection, it died again.

My first skyline had a similar issue, from memory it was the Air Flow Meter.

I was reading the posts and found some similar cases but wanted your inputs in diagnosing what it could be.

The car is a 1993 R32 GTST done 67km Japanese auction grade 4.

its got a ARC super induction box, aftermarket intercooler, and a non vent to air bov.

My first guess is either the AFM or the TPS or coilpack. since it sometimes takes a bit of crank to start her up.

Please let me know what you think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459260-r32-gts-t-problem-losing-power/
Share on other sites

... started the car to warm it up and went inside the house ...

Please don't do that. It wastes fuel and causes damage to the engine (most engine wear occurs during warm up). Also makes the car vulnerable to theft, as one Porsche owner in Canberra can attest!

Back to your problem - get the injectors cleaned, new spark plugs, change oil / filter.

So could be spark plugs, afm,

What is AAC? Timing= belt?

Fuel pump and pressure seems to be ok, but fuel filter I'm not sure about...

And boost leak? The car was running fine after the initial fit it had so I assumed was all good but I was wrong... Seems to boost well when it's working so maybe no leak,,

And finally.. Never knew warming up the car can do damage..... Is this really the case? I thought it was the opposite

One more question for you then, the car sometimes starts up well, but sometimes needs a good crank + tap on the pedal to start up. Is this just old spark plugs or coilpack or a battery that may need replacing soon?

ok, when i talked to the workshop, the car has a standard ecu and has never been tuned in the past from what they can see.

so that's probably out... but by other things, it means something ignition related no?

like spark plugs or coil pack etc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...