Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

cabin loooks great!

Thanks! Ive fitted a few more things since, and ill finish off the door trims before it goes so it'll be a bit more complete.

  • 2 weeks later...

well everything is finished, and its now on its way to be wired and tuned. Should be done by friday, rego goes back on this week, hoping i can sort an alignment next saturday.

Keen.

 

IMG_1867.jpg

 

IMG_1887.jpg

  • Like 2

Yeah, I think I paid like $650 including delivery, might have been more. But I was sick of Chinese shit that didn't fit, and wanted the full replacement quarters. I'll be sad if I mash 'em

ALL fibreglass needs work, but my front and rears both needed very little. Rears needed a little trimming on the c pillar section to make them even, and some filing, then drilling but they went on good. Fronts just needed drilling.

 

Heres a couple of pics, its only held on the car with gaffe tape, so shows you the shape is pretty damn good.

 

IMG_1136.jpg

 

IMG_1134.jpg

 

you're also welcome to come have a look, ill have the car back either tomorrow/staurday or monday all being well.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

So for the first time in 2 years, I drove it home today.

IMG_1959.jpg

Made 300 at the wheels, the turbo is simply out of puff. Goes like a raped ape though.

IMG_1960.jpg

 

Just a few small things to finish off, getting an alignment 8am Saturday, then ready to finish log booking and start racing.

 

Been long time, with a lot of hours, a lot of money, but was all worth it. Couldn't be happier right now.

  • Like 4

Cheers guys, was a bit excited to say the least.

 

20 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Congratulations man. I've been following your progress for a while. Power curve looks nice and meaty. Car is looking awesome, enjoyemoji106.png

You're dead right, only made 30kw more peak power, but the midrange is pretty stupid. Bakes 265 semi's pretty easy. Was fun to drive home this arvo haha.

 

And Launch control is the best.:27_sunglasses:

  • Like 2

Thanks! Still need to finish making some door trims, and some other stuff for cams regs, install the extinguisher system, couple of other bits and pieces. But yeah, was pretty excited yesterday arvo. All been worth it.

Also starting to look at some aero, big wing out back, splitter, canards, under trays etc. any suggestions?

You and ssxRicho seem to have a handle on that stuff.

don't know if ive got a handle on it but am giving it a go haha

lots of different theories etc out there but like anything the basics remain the same. Aero totally changes a car an the way you drive it from my experience

Make sure the car drives good and handles well without it, then if adding aero add with balance and adjust the car from there.

I went with cheaper version of front splitter etc to trial and error and in case of mistakes at first rather than go all out (im currently making V2) but as you've seen gone pretty speno on the rear cause I doubt I'll smash that.

 

A lot of people use the marine ply for the front splitter, I used ally composite (ally honeycombe middle and 0.5 ally each side)

 

Best thing is now just drive the car and enjoy it !!  nothing better than getting in the seat and driving on the track and finding out what the car you've built can do, and also cant do... then adjust from there

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Had it aligned, then changed it a bit and realigned, now have a set of 25mm extended LCA's to go in so I can run some more camber up front.

Been doing a bit of street driving, which is hard with it being so damn loud. Might put another exhaust on it and shut it up a bit. But then I can come home later at night and not wake up everyone in my street haha.

 

But yeah, runs flawless, life's good. Goes back for log booking etc in a couple of weeks, need to finish door trims and install lifeline extinguisher system. 

 

14202796_305003733192771_2120467165_o.jp

My cusco camber arms went straight to max when they went in. But now with some better rubber up front and knuckles I need a bit more. They're just simple cut and shuts with adj. lock stops, but they'll do the job. Just need to whack a new set of ball joints in them.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...