Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think a lot of people are making this a lot more then it is, if your in Melbourne just take your ecu to a shop that deals with them and they can put a new base map in it just so it's safe to start... No big deal

I highly doubt your engine will be siezed after 3 years.

Get a new fuel filter, put in new fuel hook up a battery the right way and see what happens (after you get a new base map) , even if some of your injectors are crap it should still start ...

Motors only need 3 things, air, fuel, spark.

Check your air filter too it maybe clogged up with shit which won't help.

You don't need new gas tank, new lines or a hoist or car stand..

Driving it may be different, brakes and bearing etc may need attention, if you've left the hand brake it it's more than likely stuck

You don't need or a hoist or car stand..

Bollocks. He was asking where the starter motor was, and how to access the crank pulley to hand turn it. Both of these are so much easier from below that my statement stands. You can't really see the starter from above on any RB, let alone a 26. And who would take the radiator out (or even just the fan shroud) to access the crank pulley from above when you can jack it up and access from below in about 3 minutes?

good info coming in guys!!! where's a good place to get chasis stands and how much do they usually cost ? yes car has been sitting on grass.but theres not much grass since the car has been sitting there for so long lol,

Also i won't be driving it anytime soon as the car is on space saver wheels since the owner sold the rims he had on it before i got it..and yes it looks ridiculous :(

im located around the frankston area. i've ordered a new fuel filter and oil filter.

as for injectors,i did do a test using the VIpec software and only one injector was making a clicking sound. could that just be the ecu not set up properly or injectors are clogged ? or injectors just aren't receiving a signal ?

i received my noid light kit today but i have no fuel and dont have my battery jumper charger kit yet to keep cranking the engine. should have most of what i need next week

alright so i just ordered a hydraulic trolley jack with 2 jack stands for 100 bucks off ebay. this is starting to get costly lol but what did i expect lol.might aswell get new spark plugs while i'm at it ? any recommendations?

Like most have mentioned, if you don't have money or the slightest idea of what you are doing you can be getting yourself into more trouble by causing more damage to the car or yourself. Get someone to help you who knows what they are dealing with and teach you at the very least if you are keen.

I'd like to see you get the car up and running with your dedication, but with little idea or experience on what to do its inevitable that you might make an irreversible mistake. You'll definitely need cash, so cheaping out on your safety isn't a great idea. Do lots of reading and find someone willing to help you over some beers and work towards getting it back on the road. It's quite easy to go from bad to worse.

It's been off the road for 3 years, lots of things to check before you even turn key. It could take you 6 months or more just to do all those things before reaching that stage.

lol no not just the $100, the fuel filter,spark plugs,oil filter,oil, noid light kit,ratchet set,multimeter,batter charger kit wasn't cheap,test light,compression gauge,fuel pressure regulator with gauge , i think there was a couple of other things too.

haven't actually bought the spark plugs yet,need to know which ones to get. i heard NGK irridiums are good but which model ?

i would absolutely love for someone to help me and show me ,there will definitely be free beers for whoever helps lol.

i have been reading quite a bit.over 10 hours reading actually :S i am definitely getting more of a grasp of things but experience and being shown in person is definitely the way to go

even if i had to do it on my own.before i do each step ( checking for spark etc,) i'll re read what i've been reading and watch videos on youtube before i try each step just to be sure. really don't want to wreck anything. im very cautious hence why i ask questions that seem dumb but need that little bit of reassurance

i was going to take out the fuel pump and syphon whatever was left in the fuel tank, good idea or nah? then i was going to put $20 worth of petrol in and some fuel injector cleaner,not really sure how effective that will be but cant hurt,or can it ? lol

Edited by deprived777

^you gap them down yourself using a feeler gauge or one of those $1 supercheap spark gap tools they sell at the counter. Anyways, just buy the .9 ones and put them in as is, they will be fine to get the car going.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...