Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now the car drives awesome. Traction is an issue with the shitty falken 265's that are on at the moment. I am contemplating doing an e85 flex tune. Trent reckons another 40 odd rwkw is achievable. All I have to do is get a bigger fuel pump and rewire it with a relay, add a flex sensor and tune for the e85. Some days I really feel like doing it, other days not so much. What are peoples opinions on flex fuel?

Melbourne weather has been shit so far today. So waxing with collonite is on the backburner but I managed to sort my traction issues this morning. Got a set of Achilles 123s tyres fitted. 265/35/18 all round. I know there's much better tyres around but @ $150 fitted each I couldn't go past them. If anyone wants any, import monster has a limited supply at this price. First impression driving home in monsoon like weather is that they're pretty good in the wet. No unwanted wheelspin unlike the falkens that came off. I was 4 wheel drifting around corners this morning without trying to. I will update about the performance of the 123s as I drive on them.

post-139042-0-77241300-1446257773_thumb.jpg

post-139042-0-16068800-1446257838_thumb.jpg

^Thanks dude. Wideband sensor is on the front pipe just in front of the cat, I'm still running the OEM one in the factory position and that gets used while the wideband warms up or fails. I'm not running an air sensor ATM which apparently is a big no no but the AFR seems to be fine whether its cold or hot but I will be installing 1 soon just in case. Im thinking of putting it in the crossover pipe just b4 the throttle body.

Bit of an update, Dropped the front end about an inch or so yesterday. Looks heaps better, although another inch lower would be great. Made it up the driveway at work ok, just got to see if I can get out this afternoon without destroying my front bar. Fingers crossed. If all goes well I may try lowering it a touch more and then adjust the rear to suit. Here's a couple of crappy pics. The Achilles 123s tyres seem to be doing very well in wet or dry. Really have to punch it hard to break traction in the dry. Only negative is they are noisy farkers. The collinite wax is doing it's job awesomely as well, the water is beading off the paint like water off a ducks back and the paint still looks clean after the water has dried :smile:

post-139042-0-80614000-1446688567_thumb.jpg

post-139042-0-91425200-1446689673_thumb.jpg

Managed to crawl out of the driveway at work with only a minor scrape. I'll try and refine my exit strategy tomorrow and hopefully I can make it out with out scraping so then I can lower the front some moreB)

^Thanks dude. Wideband sensor is on the front pipe just in front of the cat, I'm still running the OEM one in the factory position and that gets used while the wideband warms up or fails. I'm not running an air sensor ATM which apparently is a big no no but the AFR seems to be fine whether its cold or hot but I will be installing 1 soon just in case. Im thinking of putting it in the crossover pipe just b4 the throttle body.

Talk to a good tuner and see what he says about afr gauges...

I've heard and seen nothing but crap from them, they are not even close to the same readings on a dyno unless you get a very high end unit from haltech for example...

The $260 odd dollar ones are not accurate and I've seen a few cars go bang because of this, owners believing the gauge over the dyno.

Josh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...