Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Project MU aren't that noisy..

if..

shims are clean

shims have that anti squeal shit

rotors are perfectly flat

I recently installed 350Z Brembos, they don't come with shims OEM.. can't wait to drive on them.. will be squeal city. Lucky Project MU sell the shim kit for 350Z and R34 Brembos.

Nothing positive. Chasing a boost leak ATM. The turbo isn't holding boost the way it used to in the top end anymore. It used to hold 17.5-18psi and is currently only holding 14-15psi. It will make full boost with a pod but not with the airbox back on. Used to be fine with airbox. I will be removing the upper intake manifold this weekend hopefully to replace that gasket and check all those little hoses down there. I will update with my findings.

This is the same findings I had with my factory airbox, Pod filter on its fine. Everyone said the factory box is shit. Could be just a dirty filter though, no? My panel filter is filthy too

Filter is clean. Apexi panel, I have also tested with a BMC and k and n I have laying around. Same result. There is something else going on with my car because I never had an issue with holding boost before with the stock airbox. I'm suspecting the upper intake manifold gasket which I haven't had time to replace yet. Obviously the pod filter does flow slightly better than and unmodified stock air box and therefore is allowing the turbo to hold boost better although there is a problem somewhere. I find the sound of the pod to be hideous and annoying. Air box is my preference, just gotta track down the source of my issue.

If you take the plenum off check the two half's are flat and not warped, my R33 plenum had a bow in it and a new gasket was not enough to seal it, and tightening the bolts too tight makes it crack, lesson learnt here..

Edited by AngryRB

Get someone to smoke test it. At least that will stop you replacing things that is not broken

I want to replace that gasket as a maintenance thing. They do tend to fail on 25's and its a 20 year old part now so I might as well do it. Its not a 26 so I don't need 300 hours to take the plenum apart[emoji12]

If you take the plenum off check the two half's are flat and not warped, my R33 plenum had a bow in it and a new gasket was not enough to seal it, and tightening the bolts too tight makes it crack, lesson learnt here..

Thanks for the heads up. I'll check it with a straight edge when I finally get around to doing the job.

I may have found my problem. I blocked the bov off, just to rule it out and since it was quick and easy to do. Boost is now building up quicker, faster, harder and is holding up top perfectly. Just got to put the airbox back on and verify. If its all good then I will have to decide wether I continue driving around like a full hectic uleh, doseing and fluttering everywhere or getting a new bov.

get longer FMIC piping LOL... add additional longer sections for no reason

I might make some piping to go all the way to the back of the car and then do a 180 and come back. Ya reckon that'll do the trick[emoji1] lol.

I might make some piping to go all the way to the back of the car and then do a 180 and come back. Ya reckon that'll do the trick[emoji1] lol.

10 points right there, time for some chap laps!

Remember to slightly hold the brakes down for maximum dose

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...