Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Big changes!

Do like the rear being tidied up, looking good Bill!

Thanks Johnny. To celebrate, im taking it to a track day on Saturday and giving it a good thrashing.

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...

So ended up going to Sandown last weekend. Was a typical Melbourne weather day, from totally dry and sunny to fully wet and bucketing down as can be seen above. Couldn't improve on my pb, my tyres are pretty shot but in the name of $ saving, i'll use them again next time out. Still managed a 1.25 flat. Got a heap of pics from John at Trackside action photography this time, here they are.


22135406_1397196197064214_7761256862170161682_o.jpg22181194_1397196700397497_6027990130172966466_o.jpg22048036_1397932370323930_5101105702955874634_o.jpg22218309_1397930800324087_1194857599953513090_o.jpg22256716_1400676173382883_5253060482961209735_o.jpg22181412_1400676906716143_8113177088375392526_o.jpg22218631_1400678673382633_2833716593429466552_o.jpg22255051_1400677966716037_1733500802346405282_o.jpg22179718_1400681596715674_888965418770083401_o.jpg22218184_1400682536715580_6499031891670633899_o.jpg22218589_1400682023382298_4950269002281700995_o.jpg22218507_1400682120048955_5090346215609971671_o.jpg22179915_1400682553382245_4426309199082310805_o.jpg22289604_1400682796715554_1789957860807965128_o.jpg22179813_1400684033382097_8213011764943706019_o.jpg22218418_1400684870048680_4956688802614361971_o.jpg22181650_1400684316715402_7590449916996631927_o.jpg22291468_1400685130048654_6198243962558463507_o.jpg22179725_1400356850081482_3107673103603536943_o.jpg

And a couple more taken by others and myself.

IMG20170930112927.jpgIMG20170930112856.jpg22104494_1906597006033333_8769039140868511188_o.jpg

  • Like 4

Looking Good!

Just noticed youse haz a roll cage! Do you still retain the rear seats or have they been removed?

I want a cage in the distant future too (mainly for safety) but want to retain the interior as it reduces road noises and suppresses all the ancient creaks and squeaks.

Do you have interior shots Bill? Oootsss

Looking Good!
Just noticed youse haz a roll cage! Do you still retain the rear seats or have they been removed?
I want a cage in the distant future too (mainly for safety) but want to retain the interior as it reduces road noises and suppresses all the ancient creaks and squeaks.
Do you have interior shots Bill? Oootsss

Yep, rear seat can be retained, although they are removed for track days for hektic weight reductions. I did have to modify (ruin/crush) the upper rear seat on the edges to get it back in but it's ok as i have a spare anyway. Having seats in makes a big difference in noise levels, i would not let passengers sit in the back though for safety reasons. Passengers comfortably fit but if something goes wrong and they hit their head on the bars it would be pretty bad.

Heres a couple of bad pics i took ages ago. Seats aren't in atm so these pics will have to do.
tapatalk_1507245725032.jpegtapatalk_1507245756697.jpeg

The only issue here is there's no main hoop diagonal bars! i.e. little to no roll over support which is literally what a roll cage is for.

Having said diagonal bars will make it exponentially hard to get the rear seats back in.

4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

it's not an AGI one is it?

Johnny is there something you know about AGI that makes you not want one? seems to be the best/only off the shelf option for a bolt in R33 cage.

2 minutes ago, GTofuS-T said:

The only issue here is there's no main hoop diagonal bars! i.e. little to no roll over support which is literally what a roll cage is for.

although better than nothing... so I can't really talk haha...

Alrighty, cage is a jap spec safety 21 made by cusco. It isn't cams compliant as main hoop is 2mm under new cams regs diameter. Doesn't bother me as i don't enter any events where a cage is mandatory so its not an issue.

It is a basic cage, yes no diagonal on main hoop but there is a removable diagonal that goes from drivers side main hoop to passenger side rear stay bar. Its not the greatest cage, agi is def better but it does the job and as said above is better than no cage at all, it us also quite stealthy on the street without the diagonal and if i wanted to i could remove the whole thing in around half an hour, which i recently did to get the quarter windows removed.


Definitely better cages out there but better than nothing or a backyard job with questionable welds. Was also sourced cheaply and fits my bang for buck budget build strategy.

If i was to become more serious and the car becomes much faster, then a proper comprehensive weld in cage would be in order for sure. As it stands, this will do for now.

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...

Hit Sandown again last weekend with the wrx club guys. Unfortunately no pb, tyres are way past prime but still managed a mid 1.25, enough for 14th outright out of 73 and some pretty well developed race cars, was a little over a second off my best time. Also had slight misfire, i think its time to replace the sparkies, its been a while.

 

It was another miserable wet and soggy Melbourne day. Thankfully it dried up in the avo and some decent runs where had. Found 1 watermarked pic on the wrx club page. Was cutting across the corner to dandy rd V8 supercar style trying to exploit any tenths i could out of the dying tyres.

Screenshot_2017-10-26-18-25-13-07.thumb.png.b4bf64b6892aa28f994a6c2ac8c9a93d.png

 

Also picked up some new tyres today. So out with the old, you served well lebspec $200 yalla A050

IMG20171024180451.thumb.jpg.5fe7b45726981c9094a990eaffa2d6af.jpg

 

In with the new, enter $205 Nankang sui min hotpot AR1. IMG20171026153447.thumb.jpg.a07b79ef4800322435495edf5221f5dd.jpg

 

If these can go within a second of my PB at Sandown with the car remaining the same, ill be happy. Going to have to find other ways to go faster after a baseline run.

 

I noticed my rotors had developed little hairline cracks a couple of track days ago, Google advised this wasn't a problem as long as they weren't too big and running a certain way. This proved accurate as the discs made it through the last track day ok but did develop significant shudder towards the end of the day. I thought about giving them a skim but decided against it due to the little cracks and dont like the idea of reducing the thickness when newies are cheap. I ordered a new set of gtr size RDA fronts for $139. Thanks ebay special offer. The current rotors will become spares and possibly get a skim down the track depending on their condition on closer inspection.

 

Thats all i got this time around, can't wait to get out to Sandown again and see how these tyres go.

 

 

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Got out to Sandown again to give the AR1 a go. Was quite a productive day and I'm impressed. My existing best time was 1.24.3 set on A050 super softs. I headed out in the first session with starting pressures set at 26psi. I managed to run a 25.1, pressures where sitting at 36 rear and 34 front, desired pressure was 36. I was too lazy to pump some air in and left it as was and monitored it throughout the day. Pressures remained between 34-36. The second session yielded a new pb of 1.24.1, the 3rd session a 1.23.9 and the 4th produced a 1.23.59. I was not expecting to go faster on these tyres so I am absolutely over the moon with the result. The car has not been changed at all, the setup is exactly as it was for the A050. The only difference between the tyres was the yokos where 255/40/18 and these are 265/35/18.

 

I'm working on uploading a video but V8 supercars keeps blocking me on YouTube for copyright infringement. Like anyone seeing their sponsors on my videos is bad somehow, unbelievable.

 

Here's a race chrono overlay for now.

Great Sau app won't let me even do that.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2

So first impression of the AR1 tyres is that they're pretty awesome, especially for the price point. Compared to the A050 they feel to have a little less front end grip and not as confidence inspiring but somehow seem to deliver better rear grip in my experience so far. There was enough grip coming out of the slow corners to make me think twice about wanting or thinking that i need a mechanical lsd. The tyres did seem to go a bit greasy after 5 or 6 laps but would then come good again after a slight cool down. They also seem to work very well even when cold.

Lets see if this direct video upload works... No go with that, stuff the video.

 

With the new found speed, a new issue has emerged. I think i'm at the limit of the standard brake setup. I don't have any issues with getting the car stopped, they do the job well there but the problem has been that pads where only lasting 2 track days until today. I went through a brand new set of front pads in 1 day. i had to cut the last session short as i was on the indicators. 

 

I have wanted to upgrade the brakes for a while, my dillema is what to upgrade it with. There is obviously the evo brembo upgrade which would be nice or the attk/ksport style upgrade. My car is a non abs model and i believe there isn't a direct fit bm50 or bm57. i couldn't be bothered with having to mod hard lines. I know the evo brembo requires a bigger master, does anyone know if the attkd/ksport 6/8 pots need upgrade master or will they work with a bm44.

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, admS15 said:

does anyone know if the attkd/ksport 6/8 pots need upgrade master or will they work with a bm44

We have the ATTKD 8 pot 350mm (or is it 355?) front brakes on a stock master cylinder, on a series 2 R33 GTST (with ABS) track car & they work fine . Rear brakes are stock. No idea how that relates to a series 1 though.

We bought the "race pads" from Just Jap with the brake kit, and got about 12 months out of them. Replaced pads recently with some Project Mu but can't remember the model.

We have the ATTKD 8 pot 350mm (or is it 355?) front brakes on a stock master cylinder, on a series 2 R33 GTST (with ABS) track car & they work fine . Rear brakes are stock. No idea how that relates to a series 1 though.
We bought the "race pads" from Just Jap with the brake kit, and got about 12 months out of them. Replaced pads recently with some Project Mu but can't remember the model.
Thanks for the response and info Geedog. My car is a 96 series 2, just non abs.

That sounds positive, how does the pedal feel and is your abs bmc a bm44?

Its getting a bit ridiculous when pads wont last a full track day. They did 45 laps and where fubarred. Ive thought about trying different pads but im thinking its going to be a pointless and money wasting exercise.

I wonder if anyones tried the evo brembo with stock bmc? I like the idea of that upgrade due to the many and reasonably priced options for rotors and pads.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...