Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Another track day completed. This time at Winton with @ActionDan 's club. Was a good day out. Drove there and back 500km+ blitzed my old pb by 4.5 secs, happy days.

Ended up with a best of 1.37.75 unfortunately this wasn't registered on natsoft as it was the last lap of the day and the red light to signal end of session was on when i crossed the line. Red light came on with 2 corners to go. I knew i was on a pb lap so i kept going. 

Car ran good, no dramas to speak of, was pretty solid all day.

Some racechrono data 
Screenshot_2018-05-07-20-47-41-05.thumb.png.6b743fb511267802adcb6f491f6000c9.pngScreenshot_2018-05-07-20-47-52-39.thumb.png.60cc56a53ffa29a200d6a636e75eb338.pngScreenshot_2018-05-07-20-48-28-26.thumb.png.c0c0348a42f3fe0cef9f26e3c22891cd.png

Managed to get up to 195 km/h down the relatively short straight, that was in 4th gear reving its guts out, surprised it didn't hit the 7800rpm rev limit considering the 4.3 diff ratio which worked beautifully around the boob section and ensured i was at the right revs.

Screenshot_2018-05-07-20-49-52-18.thumb.png.46c9821606b6ed205a1bcacb3d43f419.png

 

Apparently, i finished 2nd in class which was good. That was with my natsoft recorded time of 1.38.62 First was 1.38.43 if my final lap had counted i could have been first, oh well, shit happens, lol. Ultimately, very happy to be in the 37's, the goal was a 39.9.

Video coming soon.

  • Like 2

@Dose Pipe Sutututu This one is for you. Golf R with intake, exhaust and tune. 200 awkw, has brake upgrade, coilovers, some neg camber dialled in, track alignment and Nankang AR-1 tyres.

 

Golfs are gay and should be used to go to your local golf club, chopped brah. Skyline 4 eva. 

 

 

  • Like 3

Oh yeah, on the way home, about 5 minutes from home actually i had a squirt with an A45 AMG, first rolling, A45 got left behind by a fair margin. Then he wanted to go at the lights (on a private road obviously), antilag engaged with the Ar-1 still on, the boat launched perfectly and left the A45 in it's wake. Skyline with antilag and r specs > A45 with launch control. Was a good way to cap off an already excellent day. 

  • Like 5
12 hours ago, admS15 said:

@Dose Pipe Sutututu This one is for you. Golf R with intake, exhaust and tune. 200 awkw, has brake upgrade, coilovers, some neg camber dialled in, track alignment and Nankang AR-1 tyres.

 

Golfs are gay and should be used to go to your local golf club, chopped brah. Skyline 4 eva. 

 

LOL your car has like 15~20k worth of mods!

 

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
LOL your car has like 15~20k worth of mods!

 

To be honest, the car owes me less than 20k total, i bought the car for 10k to start with. Most of the parts used to buid it where 2nd hand, other than the turbo $850, injectors $800, dump pipe $170 and wide band $270. Everything else was cheap cheap ebay, gumtree, sau specials. I can list everything if you really want.

 

Thought id post that vid with the golf up since you've said on many occasions that a lightly modded golf r would chop a modded boat. Winton suits the golf better than the boat too, its not really a horsepower critical track, although horsepower allowed me too walk away down the straight.

 

Theres definitely a couple more seconds to be had at Winton, need to properly sort and set the suspension, height adjustment, corner weight etc.

 

hahaha damn, I've seriously done something wrong then :(

Can't even get under 1m8s at Wakefield Park where a Golf R can do the same time... new setup should be ready for July battles, I hope that changes my mind.

Try softening up your front ARB to reduce understeer?

hahaha damn, I've seriously done something wrong then [emoji20]
Can't even get under 1m8s at Wakefield Park where a Golf R can do the same time... new setup should be ready for July battles, I hope that changes my mind.
Try softening up your front ARB to reduce understeer?
1 min 8 is no slouch. Interested to see the new setup go. Should blow golfs out of the water and scare many hondas, lol.

As far as ARB's, it could help but the car is sitting so high it still rolls a fair bit. More camber will help but street car brah.

I think its about time i cough up some dollars and take it to a professional to set up properly and advise a course of action. It does handle quite well at Sandown and ok at PI but Winton shows its inadequacies.
1 hour ago, admS15 said:

1 min 8 is no slouch. Interested to see the new setup go. Should blow golfs out of the water and scare many hondas, lol.

As far as ARB's, it could help but the car is sitting so high it still rolls a fair bit. More camber will help but street car brah.

I think its about time i cough up some dollars and take it to a professional to set up properly and advise a course of action. It does handle quite well at Sandown and ok at PI but Winton shows its inadequacies.

perhaps make a splitter Bill, that would help so there's no need to reduce the ARB hardness

  • Like 1
perhaps make a splitter Bill, that would help so there's no need to reduce the ARB hardness
That would definitely help and is on the cards as well as the other stuff. Just got to work out if i do it with the current bar or use a stock spare one i got.

The only thing that bothers me about all this is the list of things that are getting removed and refitted for track days is growing.

First it was just wheels and tyres, then boot lid and wing, roll cage cross brace, rear seats etc. Now we're talking about splitter and possibly front bar. Things we do to go fast... Lol
  • Like 1
hahaha damn, I've seriously done something wrong then [emoji20]
Can't even get under 1m8s at Wakefield Park where a Golf R can do the same time... new setup should be ready for July battles, I hope that changes my mind.
Try softening up your front ARB to reduce understeer?


The question is, what generation of Golf R that you can’t keep up with?
 

The question is, what generation of Golf R that you can’t keep up with?

 

The answer to that for me is none that I've come across yet. 

The 33 has beaten a few 7's with apr kits at Sandown as well as some Audi's and A45's.

 

Yes, surely there is some quicker vw's, Audi's, mercs out there but same with skylines.

 

The point is, you still need to throw a decent amount of $ at them to go quick and they're not insanely quick out of the box, although much quicker than a bog stock skyline and much easier to live with as a daily.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Count Grantleyish said:

 


The question is, what generation of Golf R that you can’t keep up with?

 

MK7, they're fast man!

Going to upgrade the missus car to that when we get back from our trip! Will probably take the daily to the track more than the boat LOL

The answer to that for me is none that I've come across yet. The 33 has beaten a few 7's with apr kits at Sandown as well as some Audi's and A45's.
 
Yes, surely there is some quicker vw's, Audi's, mercs out there but same with skylines.
 
The point is, you still need to throw a decent amount of $ at them to go quick and they're not insanely quick out of the box, although much quicker than a bog stock skyline and much easier to live with as a daily.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Yep, these euros are dear as poison to go fast.

MK7’s are pretty capable for what they are considering how held back they are from the factory although same can be said for all cars.

Also it’s down to how brave the driver is.
MK7, they're fast man!
Going to upgrade the missus car to that when we get back from our trip! Will probably take the daily to the track more than the boat LOL


Yep, they goes alright.


Yep, these euros are dear as poison to go fast.

MK7’s are pretty capable for what they are considering how held back they are from the factory although same can be said for all cars.

Also it’s down to how brave the driver is.
Agreed on all points.
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...