Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, I have a GTS-4 that I need all new front wheel studs for. I am curious if they are GTR or GTS-T studs. I found them online with Conceptua and they have GTS-T and GTR studs for sale separately, so I assume they are different spline counts. I'm also assuming they are GTS-T studs, but this car is so confusing when it comes to correct parts. Yes, I've already emailed Conceptua twice and for some reason they haven't replied.

I am hoping someone here maybe has either experience with GTS-4 stud interchangeability or have either GTR/GTS-T studs removed so they can count the splines. The ones I removed have 36 splines. Thank you for any help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462262-r32-gts-4-wheel-studs/
Share on other sites

Are they different at all? The Nismo stuff afaik comes in packets or 8 or 10 to suit the stud count and are different front to rear but they don't appear to differentiate between R32 models. The diameters of the knurled sections is different front to rear but the count is unimportant.

Also nice work Ben on the machining terminology pedantry.

Edited by djr81
  • Like 1

I don't know if they are different, I wouldn't see Nissan making them different as it would make two separate parts for no good reason. I saw them listed differently, which is why I asked the seller and since they won't reply, asked here. I tried to get on the Nismo site but it wasn't working for some reason, and anything on Google leads me to nothing useful. I know the front is different from the rear for sure, I just wasn't sure about from GTS to GTR.

I didn't know it was just a matter of measuring the diameter and that the knurl count didn't matter, as DJR81 pointed out. I would have figured the count would have mattered. I was merely overthinking it.

So yes, Ben C34, I did make this thread. Considering there isn't another f**king thread about this, I made one. It's a reasonable question considering they had them listed separate and any time I've ever seen "knurls" or splines or certain patterns like that in other applications, usually the number of them matters.

It doesn't matter now as it's been sorted. Thank you for the help.

I strongly suspect that Nissan haven't changed studs since whenever.

As an example, the wheel nuts from my 1973 180B SSS fit my 1999 Pathfinder. And the wheel nuts that used to be on my 32 GTS4 fit the SSS.

Maybe the only difference between models might be the length of the stud. But the diameter and thread haven't change since Pontius was a Pilate in the Roman Airforce.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...