Jump to content
SAU Community

Launch Control For The 1st Time But Failed

TJ - PPAC

By TJ - PPAC,
in VR Series - R35 GTR, Juke-R

 Share

Recommended Posts

TJ - PPAC Rookie

TJ - PPAC

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, I am posting this topic here as I experienced the failure of launch control on Sunday morning. I detail the information as follows and hope you would give me some idea/suggestion.

Back ground: MY15 GTR with full exhaust system changed to Amuse R-1000 Nardo Spec STTi & Turbine outlet; engine light has been on since then

I stopped at the traffic light on a quiet road with no other traffic next or behind me, awaiting the light to turn green.

I flipped the buttons to "R", AUTO mode, then held on the brake with my left foot, and pressed to 4000 revs.

Before I released the brake, a new alert message had popped out but I was concentrating on the traffic light and I didn't read it.

Light turned green and I released my left foot sideways, the rev quickly went up to 8k but the car was slightly moved forward and kept this pace (like sliding on a speed of 3-5km/ph) moving through the whole traffic light. DURING this period, transmission was like dead as it didn't gear no matter in Auto or Manual; It was sliding itself like dead but the engine was alive.

I was a bit panic as it just can't keep it this way in the traffic! about 3 mins it had slided forward, I found it turned back to normal.

I drove it as usual and left the area quickly.

Anyone has any similar experience to share with? Or any idea what happened at all about this?

Appreciated your opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Wardski Rising Star

Wardski

Posted
Posted (edited)

Question is how long did you hold it at 4000 rpm? the launch really needs to be done quick or you will overheat the trans. Best to get a Cobb AP and dial down the Revs too. I launch at 3200-3400 and it gets away very nicely, and without the brutality of it all.. I had LC set to 4000 on one of my very first launches and it just shit itself and threw error codes due to rear wheel spin. Was lucky I had the Cobb on hand as it enabled me to quickly ECU reset & clear the error codes via the Cobb and I was away again without the limp mode bs..

Edited by Wardski
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • klutched
      GOT SUM's RB34

      By klutched · Posted

      This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • carnoobb
      Newbies

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • sonicii
      Newbies

      By sonicii · Posted

      215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...