Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ebellis - Thanks man. Thought about it before but does it really matter? At the end of the day, it makes me happy. Lol. :banana:

V28VX37 - Thank you for the kind comment, mate. I'm glad it came out beautiful. :D

As long as you're happy and enjoying it that is all that matters :)

ebellis - Cheers buddy. :cheers:

XGTRX - Thanks man! :woot:

AngryRB - Thanks, Mark! I got it here in Malaysia. Sorry. Assuming that you're talking about the stickers, they are actually dark navy. Got some instagram filters going on there. Lol. :rofl2:

So.. bad news. Took the R33 out for dyno and discovered that there wasnt any boost. Got the car checked and found out that the original intake pipe shrinks whenever I accelerate. So I replaced it with a stainless steel one. Then took the car for a spin and still no boost. Did some brief research on the forum and found out that there were few possibilities. One being boost leak and the other, faulty actuator. Did the good old soapy water boost leak test and all was fine. So the main suspect, possibly the actuator.

So, I have decided to put the ECU installation on hold and just proceed with other mods before I get the car tuned. Here's what I have in mind:

1) Front facing plenum

2) Upsized Throttle Body

3) Intercooler

4) Intercooler Piping

5) Walbro 400lph Fuel Pump

6) Fuel Rail

7) Bigger and Meaner Turbo

8) 50mm Tial Wastegate

9) Top Mount Exhaust Manifold

Then..a tune.

Gonna start saving up for the big project. If things go well, 1 to 6 should be done by the end of this month. Will update soon.

no need for these things:

1) Front facing plenum

2) Upsized Throttle Body

Many people make silly power without the need for those items. Just get a Plazmaman swept back kit, similar to what i have on my car:

I can help you with sourcing the kit too if you want, as trak-life is a Plazmaman reseller :)

DIY-Skyline-Radiator-14-of-14.jpg

Woahh. Clean engine bay. What a sleeper. :wub: Frankly tho, I'm heading a different direction. Lol. I'm planning to mount the turbo up top. Tho, quick question.. Wouldnt the air travel quicker thru a front facing plenum? Or is it irrelevant altogether?

irrelevant, however a properly designed plenum will net you more power up top with some loss of down low..

The likes of Plazmaman OR CPC uses the factory runners so you don't lose the low down like those GReddy plenums or fake alternatives.

  • Like 1

nice engine bay johnny, but sits too low in bay, need more cubes :nyaanyaa:

I'd recommend a sinco top mount with GT3076 anti-surge, very delicious,

carry on :ph34r:

Edited by AngryRB

nice engine bay johnny, but sits too low in bay, need more cubes :nyaanyaa:

I'd recommend a sinco top mount with GT3076 anti-surge, very delicious,

carry on :ph34r:

hahahha... prick, well once this motor grenades I might do something more fun. It's looks nicer now, more black in it now :)

better go twin scroll too, single scroll is gaids

  • Like 2

Interesting... Johnny, quick link to your build thread?

In just a few posts, I actually learned a lot from you guys. Twin scroll actually sounds like an awesome plan. Had to google/youtube it. Lol. :sweat:

Engineering Explained - Twin Scroll Turbocharger

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7JTRRlSEYI

a GTX3071R TS with a decent enough rear end on a proper TS manifold and twin gates will shit all over that dinosaur GT3076 :)

Will make more power, will come on earlier and transient will be like a virgin blowing their load all over Miranda Kerr for the first time.

  • Like 1

stock internals will do over 350kW easily.. just need a set of decent headstuds in there and if the OEM gasket is getting a little old a basic Tomei one with some ARP2000 studs will happily let you put silly amounts of boost into the motor.

Thanks mate. Its a love hate kinda thing. Some love it. Some hate it. Lol.

350kw with stock internals?! Thats insane. Dont I need to replace the pistons and what not? Guess I'll be revising my power goals. Hahahahahhaa. Did a quick search on ebay and found that there're few specs for the gasket. Bore 87.0 or 88.0 / Thickness 1.2mm or 1.5mm. Checked the forum and many debated that stock gaskets are more reliable. Whats the truth in it tho?

Anything but Cometic (i.e. don't use them) HG will do the trick. Stock bore is 86mm, however "usually" when people slot in new pistons they clean up the block and naturally that increases the bore.

RB25DET NEO motors are stronger though... there's a 34GeeTeeTee on this forum making close to 400kW with stock HG, stock studs on his track car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...