Jump to content
SAU Community

Attessa (?) Pump Always On

blind_elk

By blind_elk,
in Drivetrain and transmission

 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

R32 GTS4, RB25DET, Wolf 3D ECU

Was out and about today, popped into Bunnings for about 15 minutes, came back to the car, starter goes click, click, click. Odd! Back into Bunnings, get a new set of jumper leads, back to the car, alarm doesn't appear to want to de-activate. Gingerly unlock door and open - no siren.

Got a jump from a guy there, started fine, but as soon as the leads are disconnected, engine dies - won't idle, but will run at elevated revs (2k +). Didn't appear to be any more than 12V available, so suspected dead alternator.

Got a mate to bring a battery, car started fine, idled fine, 13.5V.

Got the car home, noticed a pump sound - it sounded like a neighbour had an air compressor going. Disconnected mate's battery - so his wife could have her car back - and the noise stopped. Re-connect battery, noise starts.

I initially thought fuel pump, but on further investigation, I think it's the ATTESSA pump. It's not turning off when the engine is stopped.

Any suggestions how serious this problem is?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dr phil Collaborator

dr phil

Posted
Posted

Attesa pump motor relay switches power directly from the battery, so if that relay was stuck on, the ATTESA pump would operate continuously. I'd start by checking that relay, it is in the engine bay, driver side, close to firewall.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, that's weird.

Pulled both fuses, connected battery, started car. Both ABS and AWD warning lights. Replaced the underdash fuse, ABS warning light off, got code 19 (whatever that is) at the ATTESSA computer. Replaced the fuse / relay under the bonnet, then stopped the engine. No pump sound!

Restarted the engine, all warning lights off. Stopped engine, no pump sound!

Someone please tell wtf is going on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Quiet likely that vintage cars such as ours are starting to reach the lifetime limits of electronic components (like electrolytic capacitors) in these control modules. The HICAS CUs have been famously doing odd things for years now. Maybe there is something dying in your ATESSA computer. Giving it a rest might have allowed something to switch off that was being held on by a misbehaving component. Maybe it will stay good now. Maybe it will shit itself again in a few days. Maybe it takes a particular trigger to make it happen and maybe you'll never do that again. Who the f**k knows?

Edited by GTSBoy
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

I don't see the problem as an electronic one, more likely hydraulic.

If all the hydraulics were working correctly AND the pump stayed on continuously, the relief valve would be screaming, you'd really hear that.

So to me some chunder got stuck under a valve and the pump just kept on pumping, unable to reach cut off pressure.

By giving it a rest, I guess the piece of chunder has either gone further down the pipework/pump or has settled back in the inlet waiting to do this again.

Time will tell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

jiffo, it kept on pumping even after the key was removed from the ignition.

The other weird thing was that until immediately before starting the engine, the pump wanted to run when the battery was connected and both fuses in place. Then it all worked fine after starting then stopping the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Yes the IGN bit is certainly odd.

But if memory serves me these things have a constant 12V feed as well as the IGN for switching.

Will have to dig out the woeful wiring diagrams or perhaps just wait to see if she stays OK.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, went out last night, got to the destination, stopped engine - bloody pump is still running!!!

Where is the relay that controls the pump? Maybe its faulty - after all, it is over 25 years old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Duncan.

So, I located the relay(s), removed them, hit them with a bigger hammer, left them out of the car for a while, refitted them ....

And haven't had a problem since :no:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
Posted

Thanks Duncan.

So, I located the relay(s), removed them, hit them with a bigger hammer, left them out of the car for a while, refitted them ....

And haven't had a problem since :no:

It might be worth changing them altogether. Relays play up sometimes and they are relatively inexpensive to swap out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Sau Members Based In Japan

      By PranK · Posted

      Omg Rezz! Yep we're still here and actually seeing a trickle of oldies coming back.  How's things? 
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      So I raised the car up a fair bit for shipping - see image - then lowered it again when it arrived. I then rushed to get an alignment in NL before the track and the shop just wasn’t anywhere near as precise as what I got in Japan. The guys that did the alignment this week said there was a fair amount of toe in the rear that could have contributed to the understeer. It was also the case that the rear camber went from about -2 to -3 at the shop in NL. However, since I’ve now got slightly wider tires in the rear - NS2Rs run wider than Accelera 651S - I could only get a minimum of -3 in the rear now due to clearance. Front is now -2.75 (-2.45 in minutes) due to being raised a bit (previously -3 in JP). So it’s likely a combination of the two factors, camber and toe. The issue now is I have more camber in the rear than the front and the next step on the front Cusco arms will put me at -3.5ish front which seems a bit excessive to me. The weird thing is I’ve never had any understeer at the track in Japan but they are very different circuits - Japanese circuits are much slower than the one I’ve been to here.    I’m probably going to have to start another thread for the E90. The plan is sort of to keep it as a daily but progressively mod it into a track car - honestly, you need a cage for the sort of speeds you go here. Just ordered the M3 front arms btw.  Love the car despite it being in pretty shitty condition. Oil analysis came back okay and it seems to have stopped consuming oil since fixing a load of engine bay things. Saw yours is a 335i right? f**king mistake on my part getting the DI N53 over the N52, fuel economy is insanely good though at 14-16 km/L.   Cheers, it’s great to see the benefits and pitfalls of different places. I’m contemplating going back to the U.K. around next year as the cost of living in the Netherlands is just ridiculous. GF is nagging me to settle and buy a house but I don’t know what LSD to buy. 
    • LorelaiTorres
      DIY Custom Horn Button

      By LorelaiTorres · Posted

      Have you seen the Milwaukee Train Horn? It's a beast! I stumbled upon it while browsing for upgrades. I'm thinking of adding it to my ride for some serious sound. Here's the link if you wanna check it out: https://bosshorn.com/products/milwaukee-train-horn. Anyway, thanks again for sharing your method.
    • Rezz
      Sau Members Based In Japan

      By Rezz · Posted

      Anybody home...? I used to moderate this part of SAU about 20 years ago... hard to beleive it's still around basically unchanged with all the old posts pinned at the top. Amazing to read all those posts again.  If anyone drops by, I'm still in Japan (Nishinomiya, between Osaka and Kobe).  Cheers 🙂
    • sonicii
      Modding V37

      By sonicii · Posted

      Ah, yeah, the diff bushing in the rear subframe, this has been a problem since the start of the V35 in the early '00s and the only solution ever offered by Nissan is a whole new subframe.  Since they are fluid filled, as soon as they form the smallest crack, they leak brown fluid everywhere.  The aftermarket options for the v35 and V36 aren't suitable for the V37 either, Z1 has built an aftermarket option, but a few people have had issues with it. The brace should reduce movement in that bushing, so should extend its life! Did you notice any increase in noise from the driveline?  I know some have installed solid subframe collars and complain about the amount of noise it transmits through to the body, but not sure if the diff brace makes any noticeable difference?
×
×
  • Create New...