Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys having some trouble with my skyline cranking over.

About 2 months ago I started having trouble with my skyline. She cranks over fine but has trouble firing. After a few goes she would finally start. It's getting fuel, the injectors have pulse, it's getting spark, afm has been replaced, cas has been checked and fuses have been checked and it still won't start. Seems to work fine some days (generally doesn't start at night time). Went into limp mode yesterday but ran great today until tonight. It'll just keep cranking but not actually grab and fire. Any help would be great cheers

Gtst r33 1996 with pretty much every mod you can think of.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464282-r33-gtst-wont-start/
Share on other sites

My snide comment may not have been helpful either, in hindsight.

Mods may play a big part, for instance your coilpacks - are they stock, LS, Splitfire etc?

"pretty much every mod you can think of" could well be a lot of stuff that doesn't help or could cause a lot of problems. Instead of letting people think of lots of uninstalled crap, just list the more main items.

Just might help in diagnosing.

Car when revved over 2000rpm would want to stall and hesitate to respond. Had to drive home pretty much on gravity or under 2000rpm

Another thing I thought of is I have a gasket cover leak and noticed some "good oil" on my spark plug. Maybe the oil is stopping it from sparking?

Car when revved over 2000rpm would want to stall and hesitate to respond. Had to drive home pretty much on gravity or under 2000rpm

Another thing I thought of is I have a gasket cover leak and noticed some "good oil" on my spark plug. Maybe the oil is stopping it from sparking?

Yes I read that before. That however doesn't answer my question lol..

There's a difference between revving a car while stationary or revving a car while under load.

In the case of oil leaking from your rocker covers you'd be best pulling off your valley cover and removing your coil packs.

If you do see oil leaking into those cylinders make sure you grab a rag and soak up all of the oil rather than removing each spark plug and letting the oil drain on to your pistons

What changes have you made over the last 3 months?

Edited by jmknights93

Just a stock Ecu

Wouldn't start last night, would just crank over but not grab. Went to try again this morning and it started. It's showing signs of a bad crank angle sensor although it's been checked. It back fires and misfires once it starts and wants to stall while the car is running not stationary until it warms properly. Also revs very high, I've also checked for a vacuum leak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...