Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a rb25det neo and a couple of weeks ago my car started overboosting. Didnt really pay attention but a couple of days ago i was looking through my engine bay and found the actuator hose was disconnected. The turbo was boosting up to 1.1 bar which is like 17psi which is wayyy past the recommened max psi for rb25det neo turbo. It went up to 1.1 on like 15 different occassions. Could i have damaged the turbo or engine in any way because of this? it runs 12psi daily setup. thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464432-did-i-f-my-turbo/
Share on other sites

you could have, or could have blown a bearing or seal...did you? Is it making the right boost at a stable level, is it making any noise, is it blowing any smoke? If the answer is to be no to those questions 3, then, i'm sure it's fine. That's not a lot of boost anyway; 25+, now that would be a cause 4 concern.

If the turbos not blowing smoke your fine.

What i would be worrying about is how lean you got your engine.......

my car has already been tuned with a power fc and it blows out black smoke for dayzzzzz. The back bumper needs to be resprayed because the black smoke has permanently stained the bar. Gonna get some low key garret turbo, some injectors and a z32 afm then im gonna take it to JEM to get it retuned

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...