Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you want ponnies. Its type b or nothing...type a would be a waste of money

not big enough over standard. Dont expect a huge power gain.

Lucky to do 10rwkw more up top.

Id put headstuds on the list before all that anyway. Otherwise your on

Borrowed time

260 ponnies lump nice if you want them tuned that way..can get a nice

rump/rump/rump outta them..if thats what you want..

cheers

darren

You will barely notice any lumpy idle with poncams

True

If you want ponnies. Its type b or nothing...type a would be a waste of money

not big enough over standard. Dont expect a huge power gain.

Lucky to do 10rwkw more up top.

Id put headstuds on the list before all that anyway. Otherwise your on

Borrowed time

260 ponnies lump nice if you want them tuned that way..can get a nice

rump/rump/rump outta them..if thats what you want..

cheers

darren

Planning on going type b anyway :)

Haven't heard/researched anything about needing to upgrade the headstuds though (not saying it wouldn't be important to)

Hopefully e85, atr45 roller bearing, type b Tomei poncams (might do rocker gaskets and timing belt while everythings off) and a solid tune gets me close to 400rwkw haha

Trying to decide on a wastegate as I know close to nothing about them..

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/product/ultra-gate38

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/product/pro-gate50

Edited by Swole

Hi bro, by the sounds of it im on same track as you. Ive got a massive amount of parts to put on over next few weeks then off to get a tune and will see from there anyway the parts i have to put on so far are: type b poncams, lowmount external gate manifold, atr45sat turbo with vband rear housing, turbosmart 38mm gate, turbosmart 1200fpr, 1000cc xspurt injectors, plasmaman plenum, t/b & bov, zeitronix e85 flex set up, haltech platinum pro pnp ecu, apexi avcr boost controller, apexi rsm, oil cooler and filter relocation, walbro intank big e85 pump, surge tank with big pro flow e85 pump, arp head studs, performance springs & titanium retainers, 1.3mm cometic head gasket and other cometic gaskets. And ive already got stuff like r34 gtr brembo brakes all round, big koyorad alloy radiator, extreme heavy sports clutch and lots of other gtr stuff. Will keep you informed how all turns out.. Cheers

50mm, the 38m too small.. your exhaust manifold pressure will be too high...

you'll need head studs if you want to get that turbo + motor to boogie

Interesting

Hi bro, by the sounds of it im on same track as you. Ive got a massive amount of parts to put on over next few weeks then off to get a tune and will see from there anyway the parts i have to put on so far are: type b poncams, lowmount external gate manifold, atr45sat turbo with vband rear housing, turbosmart 38mm gate, turbosmart 1200fpr, 1000cc xspurt injectors, plasmaman plenum, t/b & bov, zeitronix e85 flex set up, haltech platinum pro pnp ecu, apexi avcr boost controller, apexi rsm, oil cooler and filter relocation, walbro intank big e85 pump, surge tank with big pro flow e85 pump, arp head studs, performance springs & titanium retainers, 1.3mm cometic head gasket and other cometic gaskets. And ive already got stuff like r34 gtr brembo brakes all round, big koyorad alloy radiator, extreme heavy sports clutch and lots of other gtr stuff. Will keep you informed how all turns out.. Cheers

That sounds awesome and very similar to my plans

Aiming for any specific figure?

Now I may also think about doing studs, springs, retainers and head gasket if I can save enough!

Yeah bro, if your taking the head off best off replacing head gasket with a cometic (steel) gasket. Better for boost. I was at around 290kw on 98 pump fuel beforehand. Im hoping for around 380-400 rwkw on e85. Also i just exchanged my wastegate from the 2 bolt 38mm ultragate to the 45mm vband hypergate for a better flow and a cleaner look. Will keep post informed and will put pics up to. Doing most work myself.

Yeah bro, if your taking the head off best off replacing head gasket with a cometic (steel) gasket. Better for boost. I was at around 290kw on 98 pump fuel beforehand. Im hoping for around 380-400 rwkw on e85. Also i just exchanged my wastegate from the 2 bolt 38mm ultragate to the 45mm vband hypergate for a better flow and a cleaner look. Will keep post informed and will put pics up to. Doing most work myself.

Yeh that's true

So far I've found the following, hoping these are the best prices:

http://www.golebysparts.com.au/parts/view/2063/55/nissan-rb20-25-26/camtech-camshafts-performance-valve-springs-lifters-adjustable-camshaft-gears/rb25-r34-performance-valve-springs-with-retainers

http://www.golebysparts.com.au/parts/view/251/54/nissan-rb20-25-26/gaskets-seals-and-head-bolts/rb25det-r34-neo-intake-gasket-set

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/stud-head-2000-4301-4309-nissan-skyline-gts25-25gt-rb20det-rb25det-rb25det-p-489.html

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/cometic-head-gasket-multi-layered-steel-13mm-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-25gt-25gt-25gt-rb25de-rb25det-p-1648.html

http://www.golebysparts.com.au/parts/view/54/23/nissan-rb20-25-26/timing-belts-timing-belt-kits-water-pumps-/rb20det-rb25det-rb26dett-gates-racing-timing-belt-kit

Same power figures I'm aiming for

Least you're saving a bit on labour!

Thats about the same i got. Dont get the intake gasket kit as for an xtra $20 get both intake gaskets in cometic. I reakon if you rang golebys they would probably do you a good deal. I got my head gasket and head studs for 550 then with springs and stuff good chance they will help ya. I was gunna buy new buckets and shims but can't find at all...

Thats about the same i got. Dont get the intake gasket kit as for an xtra $20 get both intake gaskets in cometic. I reakon if you rang golebys they would probably do you a good deal. I got my head gasket and head studs for 550 then with springs and stuff good chance they will help ya. I was gunna buy new buckets and shims but can't find at all...

Can't find the cometic one, may not even bother doing it if I don't have to?

Yeh I may speak to them as I'm also getting the Plazmaman injectors, rails and reg kit from them

50mm, the 38m too small.. your exhaust manifold pressure will be too high...

I know barely anything about wastegates, but after searching for a 50mm one I noticed they come in 7psi and 14psi:

http://gcg.com.au/turbo-parts/external-wastegates/turbosmart-external-wastegates/turbosmart-pro-gate-50mm-7psi-14psi-detail

Which would best suit my application?

Also just came across this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50mm-V-Band-Wastegate-Pro-Gate-ProGate-Blue-12-Month-Warranty/152098198351?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140117125611%26meid%3Dc481daac48094e95b3a6a29088c02b86%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D152098204562

Now obviously I'm trying to save where ever possible, so is there much difference in buying a Turbosmart rep one over a gen one? (besides saving $400)

Thanks

14psi spring will be good if your planning to run around 20psi boost. Turbosmart are very good gates and it probably is something u want to be of good quality. I have heard the cheap ones can leak. If you want to save money don't bother with the cams and head gasket for now. Just do the studs. Johnny dosepipe made 376rwkw the other day on a non neo rb25 ,stock hg, stock cams, stock manifolds. Neo should be capable of the same if not more.

I know barely anything about wastegates, but after searching for a 50mm one I noticed they come in 7psi and 14psi:

http://gcg.com.au/turbo-parts/external-wastegates/turbosmart-external-wastegates/turbosmart-pro-gate-50mm-7psi-14psi-detail

Which would best suit my application?

Also just came across this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50mm-V-Band-Wastegate-Pro-Gate-ProGate-Blue-12-Month-Warranty/152098198351?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140117125611%26meid%3Dc481daac48094e95b3a6a29088c02b86%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D152098204562

Now obviously I'm trying to save where ever possible, so is there much difference in buying a Turbosmart rep one over a gen one? (besides saving $400)

Thanks

You want your wastegate spring as close as possible (or just under) your target boost so I imagine you will want more than 14 psi that is the one to go for.

From my experience, if you're running both ports on the EWG you're able to nearly get double the default wastegate pressure.. with older style (single port ones) you would try and load up the spring as close to your max. desired boost pressure to avoid boost bleeding off.

Cheers for the answers guys

Seems this is the best option for me:

If you want more than 14psi go for the 7psi 50mm, it comes with a 10psi spring in the box for 17psi

Might hold off on cams and put it into headstuds and gasket instead or save a lil more and go all out haha

ARP studs

Stock headgasket

Stock cams

Your favourite flavour of turbo

Genuine turbosmart gate

Plenty of power, safety and fun times guarenteed.

/thread

Heard if I change the headstuds then I gotta/may as well change the gasket too

Willing to chip out the few hundred for a cometic one for that added safety :)

Remember, 400's the goal now too! haha

taking off the head is more work, however if you're up for it then do it :)

However when you think of a budget build, then there's no "real" need.. just change 1x stud at a time and torque them about 20nm off their rated torque requirements, then go over them at the correct torque once all the studs have been replaced (from middle and work your way out).

  • Like 1

/\ I wouldn't open it if it doesn't need it, I'd prefer a Cosworth, GReddy or Tomei gasket

I could save so much if I didn't open it but I think it's worth the safety haha

Haven't heard anything bad about the 1.3mm cometic HG so think I'll stick with that one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...