Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, long time lurker, finally decided to make an account coz I need a bit of help.

I was involved in an accident yesterday around the corner from my home. I stopped mid way across the oncoming lane in a right turn T - intersection to let a hesitant elderly pedestrian through and another driver somehow didn't see me from 200m away to brake in time and slammed into my front left. Damage looks pretty bad but I'm hoping it can be repaired. I've only got third party insurance and at this point of time, the police reckon its my fault even though I explained its a 50km/h zone and I had to stop to wave the hesitant pedestrian through.

I'm after someone reliable and honest to work on my car to fix it up. Hopefully someone who won't overcharge on parts and labour since money is tight. I live in the northern suburbs so something close would be good however honesty on pricing is main thing.

Can SAU please recommend someone?

I've attached picture of the damage in case someone on here can give me a rough estimate on pricing, etc.

post-143625-0-08024700-1467239677_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-52415600-1467239796_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-35472400-1467239971_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-22232500-1467240047_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-63079400-1467240198_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-52670600-1467240333_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-84694000-1467240439_thumb.jpg

post-143625-0-14628700-1467240534_thumb.jpg

Take it to a random panel shop and get a free quote / list of parts required. It'll cost you some time and a trailer, assuming they do walk in quotes (check first)

Assuming there is no damage to the actual chassis rails:
Straightening the mangled body is a big task and hard to get right, new side fender, headlights, indicators, front bar, lots of plastic bits, bonnet, many hours of labour.

R34 GT, not worth fixing... If you can't afford Full Comp Insurance, then you definately can't afford the repair to make this car right again. Cheapest option is probably going to be to buy a new one and sell off bits from this one as parts.... But at the end of the day, its a GT, so the engine and gearbox aren't worth much...

I think you're going to find you're up 5h!t creek without a paddle (insurance).

Since it's not an insurance job, you won't have a problem finding a workshop to do it for you, but you'll be paying a lot for it.

Really wish I had full comp after reading your reply Odium. I was quoted $3500 as a 22 yo P-Plater so I went with 3rd party :unhappy: .

Assuming you have experience with repairs etc, what is a ballpark figure I could look to pay using 2nd hand parts? Any idea what/who to I could sell the car for parts if I decide to go that way?

Whats a reasonable amount to spend for repairs vs just selling it for parts?

Bloody headache, might just go with full comp, no matter price, next time just so I don't have to worry about chasing a panel shop next time :)

Really wish I had full comp after reading your reply Odium. I was quoted $3500 as a 22 yo P-Plater so I went with 3rd party :unhappy: .

thats a ridiculous amount of money. but with how many skylines are getting stolen it's probably not unreasonable. I certainly dont think its worth it, unless you expect it to be stolen or smashed?

1) get insurance quotes before you purchase a car

2) dont get a cop/thief-bait car until after P's.

Unfortunately thats the way of the world now.

I know your pain mate. My car was written off 4 weeks ago also.

All I know from experience is that your stuffed once the airbags deploy. Min $3000 fix before panel work is quoted. Insurance will write off on spot almost.

Gal Smash repairs in Tullamarine  are good. I went to quote my wreck to be fixed but it worked out more than the cars worth. The guy there was really nice and gave an honest advice.

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks lavin, I've taken apart most of the front and am ordering a nose cut. Will call Harveys for a quote on panel beating and re assemble. How are their prices? Anyone specific to talk to there?

That thing is f**ked.

Anything is fixable, but there ain't no way that's going to be worth it.  It'd be cheaper to go buy a new car.

Why? I can get a nose cut for $750 which has all the parts I need. The rad support is spot welded on and the guard is welded onto the chassis as well. If I can get the panels beaten into shape for $2000, why would it make sense to "just buy a new car"?

IMG_20160715_091549.jpg

If you can get the panels beaten into shape for $2,000.....there's problem A.  A front cut for $750?  From where?  A decent set of headlights alone will set you back almost that much.

If the strut tower isn't moved, I'll be surprised.  If the firewall isn't out of shape, I'll be surprised.  If the front chassis rails aren't bent, I'll be surprised.

I hope for your sake I end up being very surprised, but if I were a betting man, I'd say you won't get away with fixing it for under $10k.

On 22/07/2016 at 9:07 PM, ssin said:

$750 for a Nose Cut.....I agree with Aaron. Your looking around $1500 for a Series 2. I paid under $200 for a front Series 2 Rad Support Section. But that wheel arch looks dodgy. . I got quoted $1500 to fix and refit the front of mine if I supplied the stock.

 

RadS.JPG

  • 1 month later...

I'll be selling this after I remove the parts I require off it to fix my car. It's a 1997 SII 40th Anniversary 12/1997 build date 120,000kms on clock, unregistered, Auto gearbox.

Selling with engine, gearbox, bonnet,entire car won't be cut as I have a rad support panel. Also got spare front bar, front bar lights, fan and other stuff.

PM me if you like/ Won't be available until after they fix my car, maybe 1-2 months

IMG_0731.JPG

IMG_0735.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...