Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've searched for these with no luck so here goes:

  1. Does anyone know where to get a BM50 brake master cylinder rebuild kit for the R34 GTT OEM BMC?
     
  2. Is the BM57 a plug-and-play upgrade over the BM50? Would I retain existing brake bias and ABS with it? The idea is to go bigger (front) brakes in the future so if upgrading BM57 is similar cost to rebuilding the BM50 that might be the go.
     
  3. Does anyone know if the R34 GT brake booster is the same as R34 GTT? The part numbers seem different but I'm not sure if the P/N is for the booster+master combo, and the GT master is definitely the smaller BM44.

Thanks guys.

  • Like 1

Have you tried Nissan for the rebuild kit? I put a BM57 in my S1 Stagea and retained the original brake booster.  I don't know if bias is different but I put a set of D2 330mm 8 pot brakes on the front and GTR 2 pot on rear and did not have any apparent problems with bias.

  • Like 2
2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Have you tried Nissan for the rebuild kit? I put a BM57 in my S1 Stagea and retained the original brake booster.  I don't know if bias is different but I put a set of D2 330mm 8 pot brakes on the front and GTR 2 pot on rear and did not have any apparent problems with bias.

Good idea, I'll give that a go.

Does your ABS work ok on gravel/wet with the bigger master?
I'm actually pretty keen on the 330mm rotor size so I could retain my 2 sets of 17" GTT stockies, both with decent tyres...

24 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

Good idea, I'll give that a go.

Does your ABS work ok on gravel/wet with the bigger master?
I'm actually pretty keen on the 330mm rotor size so I could retain my 2 sets of 17" GTT stockies, both with decent tyres...

Yes still got ABS. I believe D2 brakes sold in Aus as K sport or suchlike. Duncan has a set on one or more of his cars. Or GTR Brembos are 324mm. You may need to check if stock GTT wheels will fit over. I have used 17in Rays and 18in Skyline wheels.

  • Like 2

Have you pulled your MC apart to see if it is badly scored etc? If not a rebuild kit should be fine.

If you do want a new one Just Jap seem to have them for 395

http://justjap.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brake+Master+Cylinder

Have you pulled your MC apart to see if it is badly scored etc? If not a rebuild kit should be fine.

If you do want a new one Just Jap seem to have them for 395

http://justjap.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brake+Master+Cylinder


Thanks mate. I haven't pulled it out yet as I'd prefer at least installing some new seals before putting it back together.

I reckon I'll start with bleeding the abs unit as per the above instructions to see if that improves it at all.
  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone heard of HFM or used their parts? Their BM57 alternative is a decent price, pic below: https://hfm.parts/shop/brakes/nissan-bm57-brake-master-cylinder-abs/

Looks like it's a Chinese re-manufacture of the original Nissan BM57: https://www.facebook.com/gktech/photos/a.479905785391677.98225.133362883379304/729676497081270/ 

HFM-BM57ABS.png

Do not use hfm bmc. Im not sure if anyone has had success with one but a lot of people have had major issues. The only parts they sell that are any good are their brake calliper adapters for R33 and S15. Just about everything else is junk unfortunately. I recently bought some of their calliper adaptors but wasn't game on trying out their rotors. LOL.

  • Like 1

I rang Race Brakes, they don't have the rebuild kit but suggested testing the master cylinder first.

I've just done the following:

  1. Car off
  2. Pump brake several times, stiff pedal
  3. Put tape measure next to the pedal
  4. Apply consistent brake pressure
  5. Measure pedal drop

I did this for 30 sec (max attention span) and there was zero pedal drop, so it seems like the master seals ok?

EDIT: I also just watched some vids on vacuum assisted brake boosters. I've always had this thing where in traffic lights, applying the same pressure, the pedal drop slightly after a while. Understanding now a bit more how a brake booster works, this could be the engine idle revs increasing ever so slightly > more vacuum > more brake boost > increased drop for same pedal pressure. Does this make sense?

14 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

I rang Race Brakes, they don't have the rebuild kit but suggested testing the master cylinder first.

I've just done the following:

  1. Car off
  2. Pump brake several times, stiff pedal
  3. Put tape measure next to the pedal
  4. Apply consistent brake pressure
  5. Measure pedal drop

I did this for 30 sec (max attention span) and there was zero pedal drop, so it seems like the master seals ok?

EDIT: I also just watched some vids on vacuum assisted brake boosters. I've always had this thing where in traffic lights, applying the same pressure, the pedal drop slightly after a while. Understanding now a bit more how a brake booster works, this could be the engine idle revs increasing ever so slightly > more vacuum > more brake boost > increased drop for same pedal pressure. Does this make sense?

Yep. To confirm try the brake pedal first thing in the morning before starting the engine. Hit it a few times to make sure there is no vacuum left,  pause,  and then push down on the pedal and see how it feels.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...