Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are a "Thule" brand Rack but could not find anything at all for a 2 Door skyline (which wasn't surprising) So I had to buy a rack for a Toyota Yaris, cut the mounts up and modify them and moulded new feet out of silicon sealant so they matched the roof profile properly :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Yep that was me, Had just left Brisbane and was heading for Sydney :)

Extremely happy with the GTR, Over 8000km across all but one of Australia's Territory's with the only issues we had being:

-Clutch clevis pin popped out, must have been missing the split pin (5 minute fix)
-Horn jammed on when I turned steering full lock, have not investigated why yet, just pulled the relay for now (1 min temp fix)
-One of the adjustable castor suspension arms unwound itself after we went off road for about an hour down one of the tracks SIRI sent us down making the steering wheel 1/4 way off center (15 min fix)
-Close call with a small roo/other car
-Too low for the crazy eastern states driveways that dip 1000meters into the gutter, even tho the car isn't that low! (scratched up the front lip)

Best we got was 11.3L / 100km with the average around 11.7L/100

 

Tassie Trip.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

So had a good look under the car just inspecting for any damage/wear from the trip... Besides being absolutely filthy (dirt/dust) everything seemed pretty good, being aftermarket arms with heim joints I pulled them all apart and gave them a clean out... Found abit of crap got into one of the rear traction arms and noticeable wear on the rod end so will replace that.

Also found the drivers side outer steering tie rod had abit of play... I happened to find these tie rods on UAS which they say help fix some of the bump steer issues when you lower the car.

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/front-bump-steer-correcting-tie-rod-ends-584.aspx

But then found these from the guys at Shift Performance Parts, Inner and outer rods that look identical.

https://www.shiftperformance.com.au/product/n1-suspension-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-gtr-gts4-14mm-steering-tie-rods-ends-2/

Anyway bolted it all up today no probs, (obviously changed both driver and passenger sides)

Original:

IMG_1114.JPG

"N1" Parts, The angle that the balljoint is mounted on the end of the tie rod was quite different compared to stock.

IMG_1117.JPG

Another interesting this was the inner tie rods had "rack spacers" built into them, Unlike the originals which I purchased a pair of "rack spacer washers" from GKtechIMG_1118.JPG

Setup the toe as best I could with a tape measure, will book for an alignment next week

  • Like 1

So my gearbox wasnt doing so well, 1st Gear was terribly hard to engage even at a complete stop and If I tried to shift into 4th or 5th gear at anything other then grandma speeds she would crunch crunch... even worse at higher RPM.

So abit of research many people recommended "Redline Shockproof gear oil" Now I had recently replaced the oil with some Penrite stuff not too long after getting it licensed and even added some additive (cant remember what it was but supposedly gave smoother shifts etc) so I was a little sceptical that the Redline stuff could be that much better.

Oh how wrong I was... Took it for a fang and not even the slightest crunch! 1st gear is even easy to engage! this stuff is truly Magic!

redline-lightweight-shockproof.jpg

  • Like 1
I was a little sceptical that the Redline stuff could be that much better.
Oh how wrong I was... Took it for a fang and not even the slightest crunch! 1st gear is even easy to engage! this stuff is truly Magic!
redline-lightweight-shockproof.jpg


I hear that!

My gearbox was woeful changing down to 4th but after it was changed to redline it was a different car.

It really only masks the problem and I know that I will be up for a new gearbox but it has lasted a year and hasn't gotten any worse (yet).
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Small update, I bought myself a early x-mass present in the form of a Whiteline adjustable front & rear swaybar kit :)

New Vs Old (had already fit the front one before I took a pic)

1118.jpg

Rear Fitted:   (underbody still filthy from the road trip)

1146.jpg

Front fitted:

1147.jpg

Also picked up and fit a set of solid steering rack mounts:

1119.jpg

Last not least, the exhaust system had two mufflers... which was great for passing pits and not annoying the gray nomads at the caravan parks while on the road trip but decided to delete the center muffler hoping for abit more of a note.

Section comparison:

1131.jpg

Didn't have any bends and since it was only one decided to just lobster it:

1133.jpg

1134.jpg

Idle was noticeably louder and deeper as expected, Is noticeably louder while driving but surprisingly not all that much. Only been around the block a few times so cant comment on the swaybars/steering rack bushes just yet... Will take it out to some twisties tomorrow :)

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...