Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mmm lobster...

246380907_c867e08f8a_z.jpg

 

I got the solid rack bushes second hand (unused) Josh...For the life of me cant remember the brand. was BMK or BMR or something like that, They had a website because I checked it out when I bought these but google isnt coming up with anything.

  • Like 1

Started relocating the battery in the boot to make way for some custom tanks.

Ran the cable under the car along with the fuel/brake lines safely out of the way inside some split lock conduit, Comes up into the boot through a cable gland.

cable under car.jpg

cable under car2.jpg

Mounted the battery isolation switch here. (need to get some shorter bolts)

isolator.jpg

Made up a battery mount for my Odyssey Battery (have allowed for some 3mm closed cell foam to fill in the gaps around the battery and under it)

batterymount.jpg

Thats where im up to so far, Battery will be mounted here. Just need to secure that, terminate the cables and she will be good to go.

Battery in boot.jpg

  • Like 2

Cheers Josh... There are billet ones available for a decent price, But this only cost me abit of time and I made it so Im happy.

Finished the battery in boot conversion:

battery fitted.jpg

I used one of these power distribution posts from Jaycar:

single-m10-power-distribution-postImageMain-515.jpg

Fitted it just off to the side of the fuse box (circled red) ran the cable from the battery to there then just connected all the cables that used to run to the battery to that (not 100% happy with it, cables look a little messy so might have to remake the cables from scratch. Just put a rubber grommet and vac cap over it for now... will look for a better cover tho. Heaps of room for me to make a custom overflow/catchcan combo now.

battery terminal.jpg

I got 3 Innovative motorsports MTX-D dual function digital gauges a little while ago... turned out side by side there was not enough space to fit them in the gap of the center console, So had to get a little creative and recess the guages and they juuuust fit. Bolts in place of the factory gauges.

Gauges.jpg

From left to right is #1 Exhaust Gas Temperature, #2 Oil temp (outer ring) Oil pressure (Digital Number) #3 Battery Volts (outer ring) Water Temp (digital number)

Gauge assembly.jpg

Was planning to paint the guage face plate black, but sorta liking the brushed alloy look for now...

gauges fitted.jpg

 

Since im using a Haltech Wide band o2 which is fitted just after where the exhausts from both turbos Merge, to fit the EGT probe I simply drilled a hole in a O2 sensor bung and welded the EGT mount in that and it bolted straight in place of where the stock o2 sensor goes on the front turbo dump pipe. Saved me from having to try remove one of the dumps which would have been a major PITA... Once I convert to single Turbo it will be places Pre-Turbo.

egtbung.jpg

The gauge mount plates are decent but made by hand so measurements are off half a mm here and there and the Chamfer was done by hand so certainly isnt spot on. But was good for a prototype to make sure it all fits up and works properly. So I made some CAD drawings ill send off to be Laser cut in the new year :)

Mountplate.jpg

Faceplate.jpg

 

Hmm what to do next...

 

 

Went for abit of a day trip yesterday, Nice 300km+ round trip to Gordan dam which had some excellent twisty roads through the mountains, Was abit cautious on the way out with the roads being very wet but on the way back they had dried up enough to instill enough confidence to have some real fun :)

gordanrd.jpg

dsc_0146.jpg

fr_1908.jpg

  • Like 3

Ive been here on holidays (last Nov). Windiest road to no-where ive ever taken. Also i think i saw your car at Salamnca place in Hobart. I was so excited i took like 20 photos of your car in the car park. My wife just shook her head...


Tiny update... Got bored the other day and dont use my lathe as much as I would like to so looked for a little project to mess about with and came up with this:

Custom Lighter.jpg

Matches nicely with the Gauge surround being bare alloy for now too..

Custom Lighter fitted.jpg

I don't actually use a cigarette lighter so thinking of stripping the guts out of a USB charger and putting it inside this so I can actually use it.

Also picked up these from ebay, not bad for the price... Thinking of welding on some bits to the side just to make them look abit more beefy, do the job fine tho.

Rad mounts.jpg

And here is a pic of the engine bay just because I dont think Ive posted one before... mainly as its the worst part of the car, But I dont want to paint it until Im happy with the mods (single turbo etc) that way I dont have to stress about paint too much while working on it. engine bay.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...