Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is a graphic example of the problems associated, it starts at the divider (where there is lack of clamping) and this diminishes over time significantly as this part of the manifold distorts and falls away so to speak, then its a slippery slope to turbo hell.

Ironically its more of a problem in road cars that run all the time at 1.000 Lambda and non optimized ignition settings, remember 98% of the time in a street car literally is spent here, and EGT can get very high.

The secret is run the car with a bit of excess fuel here to cool the exhaust and you will increase durability 10 fold.

 

image.jpeg.305e09b91e398e96cd67380559b528b9.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.06c23bb4ea454667e94d374db48fa2a1.jpeg

It not an issue of bolt clamp loss rather the material distorts (on the manifold) and the turbine housing to a lesser degree, then its game over. I put above a worst case scenario and simple color chart shows that on the flat flange area the temps you can use an aviation product (I have worked with it to 750 deg C) on outer of flange!) typically this never gets over 550 deg C as its transferring allot of heat by that time to the surrounding engine bay air.

The whole problem though starts at the center divider where there is no/little chance for heat transfer and its more RAPE than Mr Fritzle family fun times.

16 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

Welp....

 

f**k.

 

IMG_20180921_161858921.thumb.jpg.0e526781ce12b571d9079ac9fdc2faa6.jpg

IMG_20180921_160829386.thumb.jpg.da0a8659a982271131080074a41c590e.jpg

IMG_20180921_160917897.thumb.jpg.bd31b5637fc156c967272fafd4eddca1.jpg

 

 

Seems like the gasket has gone through or at least into the inlet to the turbine. Not yet removed manifold but i'm expecting to find chunks of gasket sitting in it.

What are my options now?

 

damn dude, you're really not having much luck with this engine/turbo combo :(

Yeah its been a struggle. Has been in all of 12 months and 6-7000km and 2 track days.

 

I do wonder if bolts loosening have accelerated the process. Previous gasket i took off (after probably only 2000km) looked perfectly fine. Pretty sure this only blew out at the 2 sessions i got in at QR. The missing side of the gasket was on the looser side (nuts on studs instead of bolts).

Also I wonder if it was something with the tune also that may have not helped, unfortnatly my logging wasn't setup properly so I don't really have any useful info. Cruise wise EGT's aren't really that high for my setup currently as there hasn't been any setup completed on a wideband cruise, so thats probably not going to be it.

 

IMG_0009.thumb.jpg.3fbdb65c3649a9961190c7765da2114e.jpg[IMG_0011.jpgimg]http://cdn.sau.com.au/monthly_2018_09/IMG_0009.thumb.jpg.4fdf4843f28279d641774cbbcfc8cb6e.jpg[/img]

 

Street driven Rotary, bit of half throttle boost gets this hot. My gasket fell apart too!! Now it makes sense what RICE said, egt’s get really high just cruising, because it doesn’t as hot when you’re trashing it.

 

1 hour ago, Buraz said:

 

 

Street driven Rotary, bit of half throttle boost gets this hot. My gasket fell apart too!! Now it makes sense what RICE said, egt’s get really high just cruising, because it doesn’t as hot when you’re trashing it.

 

Yeah been around them too long (since 1995) first T04 set up. My current combo is a BW369SXE and Tial V'Band single entry housing, no gaskets or dividers to get chewed, have a great pic of one housing where the whole center divider was eroded away from thermal fatigue... split pulse is a nice idea but shite in practice I found.

Yeah been around them too long (since 1995) first T04 set up. My current combo is a BW369SXE and Tial V'Band single entry housing, no gaskets or dividers to get chewed, have a great pic of one housing where the whole center divider was eroded away from thermal fatigue... split pulse is a nice idea but shite in practice I found.

I’m actually going to a Borgy369SXE soon, Precision is getting tired and rear end is only .84 which is a bit small for a bridgey. I’ll look into the V Band option if that’s possible.
5 hours ago, burn4005 said:

Sparesbox have 20% off on eBay all the time but I'm not sure they actually can get their hands on them/have stock

Do yourself a favour and don't use sparesbox.

I waited 10 months for mine to arrive and it was always coming 'next week'. Even getting my money back was a pain.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...