Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"So im trying to squeeze a 19x11 +20 295 30 out back. Camber is -2.2 should Iget a narrower tyre or drop camber to -3.2 would that work? "

Answer - you are prob better off going orig camber spec with a 275 tyre

 

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz4.jpg

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz5.jpg

The Michelin PS4S tyres run wide, so heads up there. In my rear, I was replacing a 305 Hankook V12 with a 305 Michelin PS4S, and now I rub a tiny bit. I have my bumper bracket trimmed, but apparently not enough. I can also increase my rear camber a little bit to pull the tops in, I'm currently at -1.2 in the rears, so I could go -1.5 to -1.7 or so and still be fine. Or I can just trim the bumper bracket a little more.

Fronts are 275/35/19 on a 19x9.5 +45 and the rears are 305/30/19 on a 19x10.5 +43, Rays Wheels are Rays Gramlights 57Xtreme, tyres are Michelin PS4S, Lowered on Swift springs

zzzzzzzzzzzzzz6.jpg

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz7.jpg

  • 1 month later...

2008 Nissan (V36) Skyline 370GT Type S Coupe..  

Wheels: TSW Bathurst..  Tyres: Continental Extreme Contact DWS06..  

Suspension: Stock..  Modifications: None..  Rubbing: None..

 Front: 20x9 +30  (245/40/20)..   Back: 20x10 +40  (265/35/20)..  could fit 275/35..

5931795726640_V36NewWheels.thumb.jpg.4d929e6aba20248c0de5f258427798b2.jpg5931798b1d243_V36NewWheels(1).thumb.jpg.68926688fee08aecfbbec2b76ac6bfc1.jpg

  

Edited by taranaki gloria
  • Like 2
  • 4 years later...

D-Speed DS02

Front:  19x9.5 +25 Falken FK510 245/40 19 

Rear: 19X10.5 +22 Falken FK510 265/35 19

 

Front fitment is great, no issues

Rear offset not ideal, running -3 camber and had to cut up bumper bracket.

241040398_1876792279149444_5690502547968543481_n.jpg

241076206_4292528330840044_5578565406656928113_n.jpg

241229000_1519376578407136_1906522619674850417_n.jpg

Edited by mooij
  • 1 year later...

Joining in the fun from Singapore.

Car lowered with Tein Flex Z, running on a set of original Ferrari California wheels with customized spacer with long bolts of 30mm protrusion to fit the thick hub of the Ferrari wheels.

 

Front:

8Jx20 +44. Customize 25mm spacer with inner CB 66.1mm outer CB 67.1mm. Running on 245/35R20 rubber. 

 

Rear:

10Jx20 +52. Customize 20mm spacer with inner CB 66.1mm outer CB 67.1mm. Running on 275/30R20 rubber.

 

No rubbing. Stock alignment setting and fender not rolled.

IMG20221201121105.jpg

IMG20221201121128.jpg

IMG20221201121145.jpg

IMG20221201121202.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...