Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just when I thought everything was well with the world, the car started to misfire...As the days went past, the misfire became more & more noticeable. Only occurring when light-cruising, I was scratching my head at what it could be.

Checking coil-packs, replacing spark-plugs, disconnecting o2 sensor, cleaning AFM & even pulling apart the AFM to check soldering, the car would continue to surge & misfire!! Panic started to flood-in, did I break something fundamental, have I damaged this 2000km old engine before its final tune?!? Knowing my luck, this build has been anything but straight forward...

 Nothing wrong here...
IMG_1097.thumb.JPG.38f1dd0d19b2a1e58293d82696065bef.JPG

 

A glimmer of hope, Justin from RevZone contacted me & advised me that a tune-window had opened up just before Christmas. However with this misfiring issue playing havoc, this could mean another half-cooked tune if this problem chewed through the time. Not one to turn back a challenge, Justin said to bring the car past & they will check over it once more before the tune.

Fingers crossed!

Problem found! Misfire issue resolved, crisis diverted!

Matt from Nistune & Justin from RevZone did some live troubleshooting and found the NEO boost-sensor tripping! 
This was causing the car to r&r/misfire at random. Car is ready for its final tune :D Shout-out to Matt for all his help with Nistune.

 

RevZone pulled-out all the cards to ensure a rock-solid final tune.
As the tune was booked-in on a 36degree day, they refreshed the tune in the morning when it was much cooler. In addition, they even wired in their own Wideband sensor and finished-off with a road-tune to ensure it idles, cruises & drives perfectly. They even topped-up with extra e85 petrol as they ran-out :221_see_no_evil:

The final result:
Forged Rb25 NEO w/ GTX3071genII @ 27psi~ made a whopping 370kw atw
IMG_1135.thumb.jpg.5ae85b5138d9733d2513845dbca6efd3.jpg
IMG_1136.thumb.JPG.343af8a9e382071b6deafc4b833546a0.JPG

 

Clocking the boost-gauge, its a blur watching it peak to 27psi~ :4_joy:
IMG_1134.thumb.JPG.e3840789ebd6a2fd75a812d07debc875.JPG

 

A 2 year journey; from a rb20 230kw to a NEO rb25 370kw....its finally time to drive the car :17_heart_eyes:

  • Like 11

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...