Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Crank Collar Install

Hi guys, 

I'm looking to install an aftermarket oil pump, sump and head studs to try and extend the life of my standard 26 bottom end. However as my block is an 89 it needs the extended crank collar to run the aftermarket oil pump. Is it possible to pull the crank out and install the crank collar and put it back in without having to do a rebuild on the bottom end? 

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467986-crank-collar-install/
Share on other sites

Of course it's possible.  Just disassemble, clean, do the collar install, then reassemble with the same bearings in the same spots.

The only trouble with that plan is when you have it all in pieces and look at it and go....."gee, I really don't want to put it back together with the bearings in that state", or "WTF!?!?!  How did it keep running with that broken?!!?!!111onejuan!?"

Haha I can see what you're saying. Does the crank  require machining to fit the crank collar? 

I suppose the bearings are right there and aren't a great expense to change, are they as simple as just old ones put and new ones in, or is there machining required to ensure all the clearances are correct. 

13 minutes ago, arsnic_apple said:

Haha I can see what you're saying. Does the crank  require machining to fit the crank collar? 

 

Sure does. If you still want to go ahead you may as well measure everything up to see whether it is worth putting back together as is with just rings and bearings or you are looking at a complete rebuild (its 27 years old after all).

The motor has only done 100,000kms so I wouldn't think that it would be too worn. If it were only going to cost me a couple of hundred extra I'd be happy to throw some new bearings in at the same time (would it really be worth putting new rings in?). I'm just not keen on spending thousands and thousands on a full rebuild right now (forged pistons, rods etc etc). 

If it aint broke don't fix it. That goes for the oil pump upgrade too. Save the $ and if the time ever comes that a rebuild is needed, do it all properly then. Meanwhile don't rev the thing to the limiter all day long and it should last a fair while longer. It hasn't gone for 27 years because its weak.

  • Like 2

The point of doing this exercise is to prolong the life of the motor and not have to do a full rebuild. It also hasn't gone 27 years with a big single hanging off the side haha.

There's a few guys over here who have done the same mods and made big power and their motors have survived a long time with a decent beating, although they didn't have to do the crank as they had later model motors. 

I have an e85 set up that I'm about halfway through putting in at the moment and was looking to do some supporting mods so it doesn't just die.  When the time comes for a proper rebuild I'll be able to reuse the sump and oil pump anyway so isn't a loss there. 

New bearings, rings and a light hone etc will not cost the world. If that's all it needs than not so bad, if it needs more than chances are you have found an issue in time to stop the engine from having a failure. To me its a no brainer. If your pulling the engine to do the crank collar. May as well rip the head off (which hopefully you were going to do anyway to replace the studs/head gasket). By the time the heads off and the crank is out, you only have pistons and rods in the block anyway, so I say rip it apart and do the bearings and rings at a minimum.

Much easier knowing that its all fresh then thinking, everytime you drive the car 'hmmm maybe I should have changed that'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...