Jump to content
SAU Community

SKYLINE WON'T drive normally

Jonic

By Jonic,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jonic Enthusiast

Jonic

Posted
Posted
SKYLINE WON'T drive normally

So after thrashing it down the road, my car went into a LIMP mode, now when I drive, it won't go over 2000rpm, even when parked I can't rev it pass 2000, it's like hitting a rev Limiter. So I suspected the AFM, spark plugs and Coils so, I cleaned the AFM (sprayed it down) and replace all my coils and spark plugs. Car starts up great but the problem is still there, what could it be? 

I have reset my ECU already.

Before the limp mode starts, the car will drive fine till about down 3mins after it will just LIMP MODE the whole way, once I start my car again it will be normal for abit and then again LIMP

My Skyline is R34 Triptronic.

My engine light has always been on before this occur so I can't tell if another problem popped up so I have to check on that. 

I think also my A/T flashes before I start my car

IMG_2500.MOV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467992-skyline-wont-drive-normally/
Share on other sites
Jonic Enthusiast

Jonic

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If your Mass Airflow sensor is broken the car won't exceed 2000rpm

This thing is when I start the car it will drive normal and goes over 2000rpm but after about 3 mins or so it will just start to choke and chug and can't even drive over 40kms :(
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
On 02/12/2016 at 7:58 PM, Jonic said:

My engine light has always been on before this occur so I can't tell if another problem popped up so I have to check on that. 

It was on for a reason - there's something wrong. **Sigh**

So God only knows what might have broken to cause your current situation. (but I'll back the AFM as the chief culprit)

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Jonic Enthusiast

Jonic

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Car runs fine now and I didn't do anything really, just reset the code and I can finally drive it pass 2000rpm. Problem now is when I'm driving, at a red light my idle drops and sometimes the car dies, but starts right back up no problem. Any clues because my mechanics are clueless. The cel code was A/T and ABS fault but that has nothing to do with my current problem zz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET with solid lifters - which cams ?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DET with solid lifters - which cams ?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET with solid lifters - which cams ?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...