Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm skipping that and going straight to motor/box out, then I'll look at the head and you can come over for some beers and laugh...

I must say, it has survived many many many many track days and numerous anti-lag 2-step launches too (on private property ahem..)

On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 5:35 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

fuuark that, big cams are gay on a stock motor.. I would go big cams if I had a built motor, solid lifters, cnc ported head, blah blah blah and rev it's mum to 10k rpm witha  sequential box.

But nah.. it's a stocker heap of shit.

Goal: 400kW stock bottom end.

It can still do it! lol

2 hours ago, WMDC35 said:

It can still do it! lol

LOLOLOL.. yeah and watch a few rods go through the block when the rest of the Ringlands are smashed and snag on the cylinder walls lololol

21 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

LOLOLOL.. yeah and watch a few rods go through the block when the rest of the Ringlands are smashed and snag on the cylinder walls lololol

See no worries, you'll still have a few rods in there, gotta keep it positive lol

le siet bok updates, pulled off cat (turbo shrapnel filter) tapped out bits of engine and turbo:

20170122_172936.jpg

then went onto disconnect all the hoses, accessory loom, blah blah blah. Removed the AC compressor, powersteering pump and cabled tied them both out of the way (don't want to regas because tight arse asian). Removed nuts on engine mount. And yes, something had to go wrong.. ended up snapping the coolant hose connector that goes from motor to firewall. Lucky wasn't the heater core hose fittings. 

20170122_172946.jpg

And yeah, managed to take off the bonnet on my own, aesthetics - not really I've gone fat.

20170122_172926.jpg

So now, as you may have seen in the WTB section, I'm searching for a motor being a neo or just a built rb25det. Let's see how that goes :)

Unfortunately with so much going on, I won't have much of a budget to fry. Just waiting on NST to go up in price and I'll sell my shares to build this turd into a glorified fast turd. 

 

  • Like 3

so yeah, a bit pissed on straya day but the motor came out.. barely... I forgot to remove the shifter LOLOLOL... 

We were like wtf.. the motor and box was jammed, looked underneath and "f&%k c&_t, piece of shit c¥×t"... so motor back in ish, then shifter out then round 2 and now we're here!

IMG-20170126-WA0021.jpeg

  • Like 5

Happy Lunar New Year, also treated myself to a new trolley jack because it's red and red is a good colour during the New Lunar Year lolol.. (I have 2x jacks now lol..)

20170128_120642.jpg

Also took the box off, and yep that's it for now.

20170128_124936.jpg

 

On 28/01/2017 at 2:04 PM, V28VX37 said:

Show us the block and pistons Johnny!

soon my friend, the gearbox bolts are too short to mount the engine onto the stand lol.. need to sort that out first!

 

20 hours ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Engine for sale in VIC

 

After a built motor in Sydney, but thanks anyway man!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...