Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Round 2 on the oil pump, this time started with a brand new N1 pump, took out N1 gears and popped in Rev. 2 of the Spool Import gears.

Fingers crossed everything goes to plan this time round.

20190210_162148.thumb.jpg.c20a37e45676f44e6b46380ea925d592.jpg

20190210_131638.thumb.jpg.7f5173864f033716db1f4a9d6cd1d4e9.jpg

20190210_141441.thumb.jpg.e3b46ac215c57cf229b305fd717163ad.jpg

  • Like 3

Didn't take photos, but I realised when I was hanging a shit I popped the rear shim behind the crank timing belt pulley backwards. Spoke to a few people and @NEO25T and they said it should be ok backwards as the belt is front bias and as long as the front (outter most) shim is facing the right way it should be fine. But... Me being me, tore it all down and fitted it properly.

Also last night tightened the sump up, installed cross member, unstrapped the motor, installed castor rods, anti roll bar and all the over bullshit.

Sinco manifold should get here by end of week, just got the shipping details.

Once the turbo rear turbine housing comes, I'll bolt up the lot and work out how I will do the lines. Thinking of fitting a turbo oil filter on the chassis with a P clamp so it's out of the way.

More money to waste, and I am being made redundant end of March lol.

I dont know how u get that back one off without bending it, i just had a quick look on kudos at a new one lol.

After some massaging with the hammer and a few squeezes in the vice to straighten it, mine is uni directional and can go on either way ?

  • Haha 1
On 2/11/2019 at 6:16 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Round 2 on the oil pump, this time started with a brand new N1 pump, took out N1 gears and popped in Rev. 2 of the Spool Import gears.

Fingers crossed everything goes to plan this time round.

20190210_141441.thumb.jpg.e3b46ac215c57cf229b305fd717163ad.jpg

Nice! Is this an AWD Stagea motor? noticing the second lot of bolt holes.

Also, have heard in passing before that there's some oil pump installation hack to locate it ideally, as it has a bit of intentional wiggle room that one needs to use, to allow for differences in things like line boring moving your crank location - any ideas if it's true, or an unsubstantiated old wives tale? If true, what's the pro tip to get it optimal.

 

Edited by Stribs
typo.net
24 minutes ago, Stribs said:

Nice! Is this an AWD Stagea motor? noticing the second lot of bolt holes.

Also, have heard in passing before that there's some oil pump installation hack to locate it ideally, as it has a bit of intentional wiggle room that one needs to use, to allow for differences in things like line boring moving your crank location - any ideas if it's true, or an unsubstantiated old wives tale? If true, what's the pro tip to get it optimal.

 

Sure is! Came from an auto Stagea with 168k but the oil looked like tar lol.

So started with some basic item refreshes then somehow a few people twisted my arm a little and eBay had 18% off sitewide then ended up with a built motor ?

The oil pump mating face has 2x locating towels for the oil pump to slide on. I believe the hack is to remove them so you can move the oil pump into the right location using a dealer gauge, however that's only if you need to - which comes from when you tunnel bore the block which "may" shift the crank upwards ever so slightly. I didnt and also using stock bearing clearances so fingers crossed, no more silly oil issues ?‍♂️

  • Like 1

New shit turbo, hopefully doesn't spit out a turbine when I smash the limiter and thrash it's mum.

Still waiting on the rear housing, Sparesbox said may be next week

20190214_075228.thumb.jpg.7cef5a333251d96e82a5ef869e69118b.jpg

  • Like 4
1 hour ago, WantGTR said:

Twin scroll fag. Where's your twin gates?

Meh, no need. Waste of money, a single 50mm is plenty for this shit box.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, WantGTR said:

I hear the 2871 internal gate is a good responsive turbo. Don't get the big rear tho. Too laggy.

Gay turbo, too much compressor wheel vs turbine wheel. Even more gay sex as twins on a GT-R. 

Full homo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...