Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Shit Box Specs:

  • Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2, divided 1.01
  • Tomei 260/9.15mm Poocams
  • Sinco Twinscroll manifold, single gate (pulses split all the way to the gate)
  • Turbosmart Gen V 50mm Gate
  • 3.5" TBE with 5" 100 cell cat, mid muffler and rear muffler
    • Gate plumbed in after cat
  • Built blah blah.

 

I think the power range I guess will be fine then? 

Or should I bump the range to 440rwkw to be safe? 

Close to 600rwhp seems about right? 

Edited by ActionDan
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Shit Box Specs:

  • Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2, divided 1.01
  • Tomei 260/9.15mm Poocams
  • Sinco Twinscroll manifold, single gate (pulses split all the way to the gate)
  • Turbosmart Gen V 50mm Gate
  • 3.5" TBE with 5" 100 cell cat, mid muffler and rear muffler
    • Gate plumbed in after cat
  • Built blah blah.

 

Are you going to fully send it ? What kind of Dyno?  And fuel system big enough to support full send (thinking 1300cc injectors?)

Edited by Lithium

@LithiumMainline roller dyno, will be using 255 semi slicks too LOL.. don't have any other tyres/wheels to use.

Fuel system will be good :)

  • Bosch 1480cc (aka 1500 or 1550 or 1650cc depending who you talk to)
  • 2x Walbro 460L in surge
  • 1x DW200 in tank (lift)
  • 8AN from surge to rail
  • OEM feed & return as return

Not too sure about full send, however let's see. A bit scared the gearbox will go bang instead lol.

  • Like 1
1 minute ago, admS15 said:

452kw and an exploded gearbox within 2 hours of finished dyno session.

LOL as I was typing the above response about gearbox going ka-blam lol

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

LOL as I was typing the above response about gearbox going ka-blam lol

Just stay out of 3rd gear, she'll be right. Otherwise, i have a brand spanking new in box r34gtt gearbox sitting in my shed that may or may not be for sale. Actually, i better hold onto it.

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

@LithiumMainline roller dyno, will be using 255 semi slicks too LOL.. don't have any other tyres/wheels to use.

Fuel system will be good :)

  • Bosch 1480cc (aka 1500 or 1550 or 1650cc depending who you talk to)
  • 2x Walbro 460L in surge
  • 1x DW200 in tank (lift)
  • 8AN from surge to rail
  • OEM feed & return as return

Not too sure about full send, however let's see. A bit scared the gearbox will go bang instead lol.

That should be a very solid setup all around if it all cooperates and you aren't shy.   I'll go with 452kw but more or less wouldn't shock me 

@admS15 will need to, will find a pair before the dyno day.

@Lithium kind of pulling my finger out because I have a track day to attend (gift from the S15 owner I tuned recently).

1 minute ago, ActionDan said:

Just saw your fuel system, downgraded power now because using pleb brands.

I know, at least 50kW less now because not ID injectors and mechanical pump.

On 5/30/2020 at 4:13 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Why not, celebrate driving the R33? Great excuse to open it.

20200530_160734.thumb.jpg.c65a957f1c1f4afc476ca298261a898e.jpg

We are coffee pals. I have the same machine (well actually the cheaper one without an LCD). 
Mine has been going strong for 5 years. It's been through three offices and now makes my morning coffee without fail.

Literally the greatest little coffee machine i could have asked for. I trust yours is going just as strong?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...