Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

I'm surprised you can hear a properly tensioned timing belt over the fan and injectors, gates or not. I run the gates one in the race car and can't hear it at all. Obviously they would get noisier between the belt and idler/tensioner bearings if over tensioned

You can only hear the difference with the bonnet up or head in the engine bay, can't tell from the driver's seat of the car. In engine bay though they are definitely noticeable as being whirry.

Fk I hate this car... Was trying to figure out why the stupid ABS wasn't working, even though a new relay went in.

Worked out how to put the ABS unit into diagnostic mode and it came up with code 26, LHS wheel speed sensor short circuit.

So sure, let's take off the sensor, give it a clean and trace the wiring back....

FML... Found a molten pile of loom lol... When the motor and bay was stripped and put back together, the loom was run via the OEM location and points. This is incredibly close to where my the gate is. Normal street use, (drag use which it never sees) the loom would have been fine, but on the track it was game over.

Explains why the ABS and tacho all died within hours of each other lol.

Anyhow, wasted 3 hours stripping it back, crimping on new wires, heat shrinking, etc. Will fleece tape the piece of shit and route the loom differently to avoid this same shit storm again.

Buy a Nissan and mod it they reckon 🥲

PXL_20221115_210913365.jpg

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

This is the reason I ran my loom through the wheel arch when I went single 

Initially I had the loom running high up, against the strut tower where the OEM PS reservoir is. 

When the Birrong guys put together the engine bay, and dropped the new motor in they ran the loom in the OEM location with clips and all (not wrong or anything, also probably for them there's no issue too, as most of their customers are drag racers).

The electrical issues only presented themselves after a track day at Luddenham where the loom was exposed to high heat for 10 or more minutes at a time, instead of a whole 10 to 12 seconds.

8 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Would you consider remaking that section of harness with Tefzel wire? Could even use high temp fiberglass sheathing for added sexiness. 

I want a modern fast car, but my autistic brain will end up with a brand new loom lol.

Like how I said I will never need a built motor or more than 350kW.

  • Haha 2
23 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I want a modern fast car, but my autistic brain will end up with a brand new loom lol.

Like how I said I will never need a built motor or more than 350kW.

Like how I say every time I get a new car or bike that "I'm keeping this stock", or my other classic of "while we're in there"

It's a disease, and modifications are the cure

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
2 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I reckon fixing your f**k ups would be cheaper then fixing bmws f**k ups 

Go wash your potty mouth out with soap.

BMW would be superb, it will be stock and I will enjoy my life not constantly fixing shit.

  • Haha 2

 

11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Go wash your potty mouth out with soap.

BMW would be superb, it will be stock and I will enjoy my life not constantly fixing shit.

Is that because you’ll be paying out your ass for bmw to fix it?

  • Haha 1

Whether it is a highly modified car, or a standard BMW, you will always need a 2nd car or motorbike to get around in/on

Don't BMW give OPAL card credits when you buy a new one anyway?

  • Haha 2
34 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

2nd car or motorbike to get around in/on

I've got the missus' Tiguan for that, although warranty runs out next July lol... Might be scary driving around in a VW without warranty.

  • Haha 1
3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I've got the missus' Tiguan for that, although warranty runs out next July lol... Might be scary driving around in a VW without warranty.

No scarier than driving a BMW still under warranty 

Buy one of these if you want a BMW

Classics

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1979-bmw-6-series-635csi-e24-manual/SSE-AD-5690775?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-5690775

 

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1989-bmw-3-series-320i-e30-manual/SSE-AD-12906574?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-12906574

  • Like 2

Car did not blow up, did find that I dropped the o-ring off the oil cap so there's now a nice oil mist all over the engine bay lol.

Last cruise session, banged the limiter quite a bit in 2nd then spat a PS belt.

Drove car home, I think it was a successful night?

@r32-25t stalker photo below 

IMG_20221119_232301_892.thumb.jpg.e3b372cd73a146b72a45b47853ba08e1.jpg

Managed to do a 2m2s lap on the GP Circuit too inbetween the cruise sessions. Overall, successful day and bumped into a few other SAU members.

IMG-20221119-WA0014.thumb.jpg.584fef228429c9bdab31a9e4b983b506.jpg

PXL_20221119_070912978.thumb.jpg.e5c0cd3a3e2e758a349ca23e4de1afa2.jpg

Over all I think I hate the car less, it's still a croc of shit but not going to lie did giggle a bit 😂

Btw... Rolling antilag is great fun, everyone needs it.

 

 

  • Like 8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...