Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Full Floating Brake Rotors

For custom made brakes there is an option to get full floating rotors rather than the usual solidly bolted together two piece jobs, dedicated race car. Has anyone experience with this type, good, bad? Worth getting?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468094-full-floating-brake-rotors/
Share on other sites

Not directly related. but a full floating front rotor on my motocross bike made a big difference. 

Pad knock back is not a major issue on a dirt bike(we have proper floating calipers as well). but the front brake is more consistent and the bite point is always in the same spot now and if the same rotor is good enough for Toby Price to win Dakar with then it is way too good for me

Fully floating rotors are self centering so are less affected by any hub runout, have less drag (probably more of a factor on a bike than a car) and allegedly have cooling benefits ...not speaking from experience .. I bought D2s...- 

FWIW most of the 'real' race cars I've seen photos of appear to run fully floating discs, plus pretty much all the modern European exotics and other supercars. From what I've read they're meant to be better for your hubs due to reduced heat, for one thing.

Depends on how serious a race car it is I suppose, and what the price difference is all other things being equal?

I mate of mine runs a front pair in his relatively stock Evo 10, reckons it is an improvement. 

Wondering if pad knock back might be a problem, the extra rotor clearance they make would have that effect but if it's noticeable at the brake pedal is another question. Might ask if full floating can be converted back to solid mounted, the difference looks to be some fancy attachment hardware so that may be possible if knock back is a problem.

Certainly have read all the responses, they are all helpful but I'm trying to get my head around a better pad clearance feature that does not involve knock back. Not saying that it does, I just don't understand how that is possible. 

2 hours ago, 260DET said:

Wondering if pad knock back might be a problem, the extra rotor clearance they make would have that effect but if it's noticeable at the brake pedal is another question. Might ask if full floating can be converted back to solid mounted, the difference looks to be some fancy attachment hardware so that may be possible if knock back is a problem.

Stop tech make a set where you can reverse the bits that attach the rotor to the centre to have optional full floating.

wow. he clearly knows his shit and there is good info in there....but did no-one watch the video before posting and suggest it could have been made clearer?

anyway....I'm not saying there is no benefit to something I've never tried, but in 10+ years racing the skyline up to 1 hr enduros I've never had pad knock off, nor have I had a wheel bearing fail. Maybe the z is different to the skyline setup though.  I've had plenty of brake problems over the years with boiled fluids, over temp pads, race pads not working on the street, master cylinder leaking etc etc, but never pad knock off.  I suspect the skylines just have nice big wheel bearings....not that I ever had the problem in the evo (6hrs) or daewoos (1hr) either

Duncan....an observation  is that it only is an issue from time to time on setups over 355mm. i think up to that  size you are fine and rarely have an issue.

 

I have seen and know of  some cars running 380mm rotors etc that have knock off as due to diam any hub deflection ends up with more movement at the rotors outer edge

  • Like 1

OK understand it now, thanks all, Roy's point about large diameter rotors makes sense too. So for a limited use race car the only disadvantage seems to be extra $ which seems somehow to be a familiar theme.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...