Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Offset subframes issue.....anyone got a cure

I've got the same problem that a lot of the S-Chassis and R-Chassis suffer from, the subframes on my R32 GT-R cause the wheels to fill the guards differently. I have the left rear wheel sticking out further and the right front wheel out further......it looks odd!

i have searched and read everything on the site and there are quite a few people who have the same problem but no one seems to have a cure.

i have talked to a few Nissan and alignment specialist and it is quite when you run big offset wheels.

Does anyone make an offset subframe bush set for the rear? What about the front.....slot the subframe and machine some inserts? Whiteline make some offset bushes to adjust on the caster and top front camber arms, what about using the offset metal inserts in these with some custom urathane bushes?

Any thoughts?

yes adjustable lower control arms, and adj camber/traction arms. Set it exactly how you want to the mm, and get a better wheel alignment too.

Anything else I can help you with :P

Is there an actual misalignment problem or does it just look like it? If there is an actual problem then how much by? A good laser aligner will show this which tells you how much change is needed. From then on it's just a matter of making the appropriate changes, I had some vague idea that eccentric subframe mounting bushes were available.

  • Like 1
38 minutes ago, 260DET said:

Is there an actual misalignment problem or does it just look like it? If there is an actual problem then how much by? A good laser aligner will show this which tells you how much change is needed. From then on it's just a matter of making the appropriate changes, I had some vague idea that eccentric subframe mounting bushes were available.

A lot of S14/R33 era cars had the subframe a good 10-15mm to one side.  It's real.

  • Like 1

 

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

A lot of S14/R33 era cars had the subframe a good 10-15mm to one side.  It's real.

Up  to 15mm? That's a warranty issue surely although it may be just a bit late for that. The local excellent aligner reckons up to 3mm is common, that's on any car.

When they're up on tippie toes with skinny arse stock wheels, you can;t really notice.  When you drop them and try to fill the guards is when you notice it.  It may have been for a reason, but everyone is buggered if they can come up with a good one!

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

You can buy SPOON Rigid Collars from here...

http://www.rigidcollar.com.au/HOME.html

 

I just bought the rear set and will be putting them in when I have a chance as I noticed my rear wheels are to the left by about 3-4mm.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

That's not really a solution to this problem though.  That's just solid bushes that are probably still concentric.  To move the subframe one way or the other to change its centering relative to the body, you need eccentric bushes/collars/whatever.

I have the exact same issue as you.. Read up on what these things actually do and how they fix the problem.. The holes where the bolts from the chassis go through the subframe have become larger over time which enables this to happen..

http://www.speedhunters.com/2011/06/car_life_gt_gt_fitting_rigid_collars_to_the_gt_r/

1 hour ago, GRKGTR said:

I have the exact same issue as you.. Read up on what these things actually do and how they fix the problem.. The holes where the bolts from the chassis go through the subframe have become larger over time which enables this to happen..

http://www.speedhunters.com/2011/06/car_life_gt_gt_fitting_rigid_collars_to_the_gt_r/

The holes in the sub frame do not become larger over time, they are drilled larger from factory to help with the assembly process. These are cars that are built on an assembly line, not hand built like a Bugatti Veyron or a Ferrari 458, Nissan gives zero f**ks for a something that is out up to 5mm (case in point the rear of the car being offset in one direction) all they care about is how cheaply they can make something.

With the rear of the car the diameter of the pin that holds the sub frame are 20mm and the holes drilled in the sub frame bushes are 21.4mm. How is the spoon kit going to push the sub frame 5-10 mm to one side?

I did have a laugh at Mr speedhunters article, this quote was one of the best

This picture perfectly shows the problem the Rigid Collars address. You can see how the subframe has moved around and the bolt is far from centered, not to mention the offset bolt marks left on the subframe.

If the sub frame was moving around there would be paint off everywhere around the nut, the sub frame was bolted up that way from factory and hasn't moved since, it looks like that was the first time is has been undone since new. Another thing that i found weird is why didn’t he post a picture of the nuts done up once the collars were installed to show the difference they made?

9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The little bit of slop available from the OEM tolerance is not enough to explain the 10-15mm offset that you see in many R33s though.

This guy gets it.

  • Like 1

I had this issue, fitted some lower offset rims to my R32 GTR and immediately noticed that one side stuck out further than the other. Dropped the subframe out, replaced with solid alloy mounts which fixed it to some degree. Then installed adjustable lower LCAs which really only needed a couple of mm adjustment on one side, now got it looking sweet. It's a pain to fix but you can get it done if you're that anal, like me.

  • Like 1

I was always under the impression that "offset" issue was caused by flogged out OEM subframe bushes. 

I removed and replaced my subframe bushes with Hardrace ones and don't really have the said issue. Running 255 semis  (which stick out even more than normal tyres) with 17x9+30 wheels they have equal amounts of space each side.

Even when I had 18x9+20 BBS wheels with 265 tyres they were spaced equally. 

On 20/01/2017 at 2:13 PM, niZmO_Man said:

I don't read Speedhunters for their articles <insert something about playboy magazines>. They've proven themselves not to be that knowledgeable and have some 'product placement' in it as well.

Yep.. like how a set of Tomei ARMS turbos were installed for "response". LOL x 100000

  • Like 3
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...