Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 K-sport brake kit fitment

yo...picked up a K Sport front kit, 8 pot calipers and the 330mm discs. Like the other thread on here, i had some issue with runout being 0.24mm, way over the 0.10 max. But a bigger issue was, the caliper adapters use an M14 bolt to bolt the adapter to the hub, rather than the stock M12. KSport have replied quickly, telling me I need to drill out the hub mounts to 14mm - i know plenty of people on here using this kit but never had anyone mention this before; is this right or have i been sent R34 adapters? 

Not keen on drilling out the hub mounts as it means i won't ever be able to go back to stock calipers again if needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468526-r33-k-sport-brake-kit-fitment/
Share on other sites

R33 K-sport brake kit fitment yo...picked up a K Sport front kit, 8 pot calipers and the 330mm discs. Like the other thread on here, i had some issue with runout being 0.24mm, way over the 0.10 max. But a bigger issue was, the caliper adapters use an M14 bolt to bolt the adapter to the hub, rather than the stock M12. KSport have replied quickly, telling me I need to drill out the hub mounts to 14mm - i know plenty of people on here using this kit but never had anyone mention this before; is this right or have i been sent R34 adapters? 
Not keen on drilling out the hub mounts as it means i won't ever be able to go back to stock calipers again if needed.

Sounds like R34 adapters to me? I thought all K-sport kits were meant to be plug and play, I wouldn't go drilling just yet.

Also that's massive runout, I had heaps of vibration at just 0.10mm in a 310mm disc, you'll need to get that sorted.

Here's my mission from last week with some tips: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/?do=findComment&comment=7803377

You could get a metal bush made up and insert into the 14mm holes and then just use your 12mm bolts. Or if the threads are in the adapter use a time sert or helicoill to reduce the size. I know of people who have used both methods successfully. When I was in a similar situation, I just drilled out the holes to 14mm and had some reducer bushes made up just in case I ever wanted to revert to stock calipers.


I could but that would be more stuffing about than i was hoping to do. If that's what the kit is -m14 bolts, then so be it, just have never read or heard this being mentioned before.

sounds to me like you have the wrong kit. 32 would definitely be 12mm and 34 is 14mm....I don't know if all 33s are 12mm or maybe they changed along the way somewhere.

Either way I'd be trying for a sway to a 32 kit first, but if not I'd happily drill the hub out to 14mm (after all you can always go back to stock because 12mm bolts fit in 14mm holes...

Which end of the brake fitting has the wrong end, chassis or caliper end? All the ones I've had a banjo at the caliper end and flare at the car end.

When you say the runout is over spec, is that the disc when it is bolted to the hub? it could be the hub or the mating surface that is the issue as much as the disc.

I just put a set of these (ATTKD brand) on the cima last weekend and they went on perfectly, 4th set I've bought of these over 10 years now. 

thanks Duncan. I've never read anything to indicate any R33 gtst had anything other than 12mm mounting bolts, with 14mm appearing on r34's, with the bigger discs.

the 12mm bolt would fit in the 14 mm hole but would be sloppy, and adapters can be made but why bother if I don't need to, and Ksport do make a r33/12mm caliper adapter? Plus a lot more stuffing round taking off hub, putting on drill press to make sure hole is drilled square, etc.

Hose has a banjo fitting at caliper end but a concave fitting at the end where it fits to the factory hard line, and the stock line has a raised/convex fitting rather than concave.

For the runout, the hub is spotless and has about 0.02mm runout. I have fitted the ksport disc to all 5 different positions on the hub and I get the same runout figures in every location I'm open to further suggestions on what to check but can't see any issue with the hub and the fact the dial indicator readings are consistent on the disc, has me thinking that it is runout on the disc. Didn't get as far as the driver's side to check its runout, due to the caliper adapters not fitting anyway.

  • Like 1

thanks dude, will see how we go.

While the first reply from K Sport was a bit 'brush off' they did reply quickly so will see how this develops, before passing any harsh judgement.  Something along the lines of, mistakes happen, it's how you deal with them that matters..

  • Like 1

Wait.. sorry man. The adaptors are for those of us with 14mm hubs and need them to be 12mm for 32r/33.

The bolt slides through the hub and bolts to the caliper. Sleeves won't work if the hub is 12mm and the bolt is 14mm. But will if you were to drill your hub and want to go back to stock.

 

 

Get them to send you the correct kit with the correct brake lines... That's ridiculous they didn't correct their mistake straight away and instead they asked you to drill your hub...

  • Like 1

Yeh, I'd be telling them it's going to be returned for a refund and take it from there. They know exactly what they have done and are counting on you rolling over, surely there are other options available to you.

  • 1 month later...
On ‎11‎/‎01‎/‎2017 at 11:46 AM, 260DET said:

Yeh, I'd be telling them it's going to be returned for a refund and take it from there. They know exactly what they have done and are counting on you rolling over, surely there are other options available to you.

seems that's exactly it. Their "lack of staff in the office" to deal with the matter, is not my problem.. All i'll say is, I have a refund from them now, and also have an ATKKD kit from Justjap on my car which fits EXACTLY as it should. Works great, and as always I got very good service and communication from them.

  • Like 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...