Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, samurai_gtr said:

There seems to be two standard sizes for GTR coolers.  For my power output would I only be requiring a 70ish mm cooler?  What power figure will this take me upto?  Would I lose response if I went to a bigger cooler?  Any other downsides of a cooler that is 'too big'?

800hp at the crank on the 76mm plazamaman. I plan to test that out soon to.
Bigger cooler means more weight and i guess more pressure drop but maybe not?... Also means its harder to fit.
Thing to keep in mind also is that bigger coolers act as a bigger heat sink, eg they're physically bigger chunks of metal that take longer to heat up. an 80C cooler is going to cool less effictivly than a 50C one. They both have the same frontal area so there's the same amount of air flowing through them, though obviously on a 100mm one there's an extra 30% length of fins for it to flow more so it could cool slightly more... but then that disturbs your air flow...

End of the day will depend on your application. For a non extreme street car that's probably never going to do more than a social track day, a 76 will be fine for sure, ditto for aluminium radiator.

10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

It's unlikely that you will get a copper radiator that is superior to an alloy radiator at a low price.  Copper rads are inherently more expensive than aluminium rads.  In my earlier reply I said " for otherwise identical heat exchangers [copper] will result in better cooling", but the problem is that there is never going to be a pair of radiators that are the same except for the material.  Aluminium rads have fatter tubes and different fin pitch where copper rads have to have thin tubes because the metal is not as strong.  It's actually easier to get a very good aluminium radiator than it is to get a very good copper one.  And the Al rad is lighter and should last longer.

There are a lot of "articles" written by radiator people on this topic that you could google up.

In your specific case, Koyo don't even offer a copper rad for R34s, so it's not even a point for discussion.  The only parts they list are for their racing product line, which are all aluminium, including the tanks.

Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy.  Sorry I should have been more specific, the two radiators I'm referring to are:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/koyo-type-r-copper-radiator-bnr34-zenki.html

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/KOY-R020879

Edited by samurai_gtr
6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

That's somewhat intriguing, because Koyo don't list the copper version of that part number on their own website.  Only the HH20879, which is the one you linked from No Limit.

- aluminium part #: R02879

- copper is part #:  KA020879

Got the copper part # / quote from Streeter, perhaps it's an item that's only stocked in Japan?  I also looked at the KoyoRad site and catalog and couldn't find it.

No, the aluminium part number is HH02879.  The part number at No Limit is their own bastardised version, based on the original Koyo number.  Happens all the time at resellers/on-line vendors.  It's easier for them to just use a version of the manufacturer's number to reduce their own confusion.

The copper one will remain a mystery unless you buy one and prove their existence!

  • 3 months later...
On 1/22/2017 at 7:15 PM, samurai_gtr said:

Still entertaining the idea of an ARC as I've always wanted one and my mechanic highly recommends them.  Does anyone know the difference between the 073 and 079 models?

 

FYI the difference between the 073 and 079 is the number of tubes between the end tanks. 

The 3 in the 073 corresponds to 13 tubes. The 9 in the 079 = 19 tubes.  

Also, the 07 = 70mm depth of the intercooler. The overall dimensions of both units are exactly the same (300x600x70).  The only difference is the number of tubes.  

Hope this answers your question  :-)  

Both of those Koyo rads will work well, the copper one will be more expensive and heavier compared to the lighter and cheaper aluminium model but both will get the job done effectively and are quality units (I have a Koyorad aluminium model and love it). Copper is more resistant in terms of galvanic corrosion but they should both see similar service life if you replace your coolant / corrosion inhibitor regularly.  

Copper is a much better conductor of heat (aluminium is only about ~59% as capable as copper in terms of thermal conduction) but on a radiator the total surface area exposed to airflow has a much larger impact on the ability of the radiator to transfer heat to the environment vs the material used. This combined with the much lower prices / weight of aluminium and improved  welding processes have made thicker / larger aluminium radiators the norm in the vehicle industry where copper radiators used to dominate. This is the same reason why you will almost never see a copper intercooler as the additional weight and expense does not make a worthwhile performance difference..

Look at high end PC heatsink designs these days and they are almost universally using copper slugs or heatpipes to transfer heat from the processor to a large collection of aluminium fins for the same reasons. 

 

In terms of an intercooler go with a "street" (~70mm) model from a decent Australian manufacturer such as Plazmaman or PWR - both offer world class gear at prices much better than the top overseas brands.

  • Like 1

Just chipping in +1 for plazaman 76mm - same car/power as yours. 

Dyno testing showed a small improvement in response, but negligible power change. The big difference was we could hit it multiple times on the dyno and the IATs stayed steady. This is with -9s running 24-25psi so the air temp out of those won't exactly be chilly. 

If you get the IAT bung option, be sure to get a new gasket and use some RTV on it, the mounting surface on mine was very thin and it had a boost leak there. The thread for the screw that holds the sensor in was also not deep enough. 

Stealth for me. No logo painted on the core. Looks stock. post-23873-14601187466408.thumb.jpg.036d0bf2c53a44ae4861d86870c416d0.jpg

received_10154966579034838.jpeg

received_10154966579054838.jpeg

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1

I'm very impressed with the build quality and design of our local products (that Plazmaman unit looks superb). 

I guess I'm also a fan of Japanese steel :-) OK I'm going to nerd out here for a moment - The ARC 073 is 2.5kg lighter than the stock cooler (a pretty important location on your car for weight savings).  All the original Nismo Intercoolers were made by ARC.    I "believe" ARC has a patent on the inlet of their tube design which provides improved response.  

MakeThumbImage.jpg.e11fd54a3f7c54790bd0e4ada8f2a1c5.jpg

 

Edited by ChrisR33GTS-T
  • 2 weeks later...
34 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But Plazmaman better..

Yeah Plazmaman looks to be good quality.  However when I say Greddy or HPI costs less for me, it really is only 2/3 of Plazmaman...  Shipping is a killer and so is currency exchange...

Greddy and HPI are both "bolt-on" units, so I assume they would be the same size.  But I just read closer and they are not!

HPI: 500mm x 270mm x 72mm  /  Greddy: 600mm x 284mm x 66mm

HPI is a whole 10cm shorter?  Hmm that's intersting...  What is R32's factory size?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know what, I am enjoying your updates, but I have to say it is pretty poor form to walk into a shop that is paying for space and stock on the floor, try all their seats to work out what you are happy with, then buy somewhere else. If everyone did that the shop will be out of business with no opportunity for anyone to try a seat before buying. 👎  
    • Good work, and thanks for posting up your solution for future people!
    • Yeah mate that’s the plan, I just want something I can have fun in and work on during weekends.  There’s really only 1 road fit to drive the car on and luckily is been redone recently.  I do want to tune it next year sometime, no dynos here so I’m looking at an ECU that can be remote tuned. 
    • To what gain?
    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
×
×
  • Create New...