Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dave123456789 r32 gtr

Been meaning to make a thread on this for a while. Story goes like this..

 

I have been wanting a R32 GTR for as long as I can remember, was always the dream car to have since my younger days when everyone had gtsts and gt4 skylines. I had been saving furiously for a few years trying to have a crack at the property market so had some money sitting idle, the pine for a gtr started to get stronger and stronger then one day I just went for it. I had not long turned 30 so thought of it as a present to myself. After a bit of a hunt this is what I ended up with.

 

Originally wanted a black one or that dark grey they come out in but after seeing white in the flesh I was sold. Also had to be a 1994 model as I wanted the latest one you can get.

 

1994 Nissan Skyline GTR

82,000ks

Tomei type A cams 264

Adjustable cam gears (no name brand and not dialled in yet)

Aftermarket fuel pump

Mines ECU

Straight through exhaust with 1 rear muffler

Apexi induction kit

Lowering springs on bilstein shocks

Cusco 2way LSD

Stock turbos at stock boost (10-11psi)

N1 side skirts, rear end caps and headlights.

Tomei gear knob my lovely lady got me for Christmas as previous one was the only thing I hated about the car

 

So far have only changed the wheels, still working out which route to go with the turbo chargers. I sold my Evo 5 so freed up some extra coins for this. Here's some pictures

IMG_0208.JPG

IMG_0205.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468806-dave123456789-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Nice car.

You will need an aftermarket ECU (e.g. Link, Haltech) and watch this:

 

Hey mate.

Still unsure if I am going to take the plunge and crank heaps more power out of it. For now it looks the part, sounds awesome and is quick enough for the streets. Im not planning on tracking this. I did manage to do a 13.108 at 108mph down the 1/4mile with this setup. Few more pounds of boost pressure and I could have probably cracked a 12.

5 minutes ago, jmknights93 said:

Looking mighty neat! Loving the choice of wheels.

Cheers mate. They are 18x9.5 -15 BBS RS replica wheels. fit good and didn't even need to roll the guards at this height with 265/35 tires. So they are not the real deal but look good. Still trying to work out what color to change the centre bit to, thinking a dark grey or a dark bronze/gold.

 

18 minutes ago, dave123456789 said:

Cheers mate. They are 18x9.5 -15 BBS RS replica wheels. fit good and didn't even need to roll the guards at this height with 265/35 tires. So they are not the real deal but look good. Still trying to work out what color to change the centre bit to, thinking a dark grey or a dark bronze/gold.

 

Sounds like the same wheel combo as a mate of mine. Sits nice!

15936542_10155695924824897_5250956036659083502_o.jpg

 

  • Like 1
9 minutes ago, jmknights93 said:

Sounds like the same wheel combo as a mate of mine. Sits nice!

15936542_10155695924824897_5250956036659083502_o.jpg

 

Yep I love the look of those wheels.

 

Any idea where he got the centre caps? Are those replicas also? Cheers

17 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

I think you mean +15 :P. They look awesome, perfect sizes/offset for R32 GT-R.

Haha my bad. Im used to oldschool rwd Toyotas where everything decent is in negative offset.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...