Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Custom gauge fit R34 GTT only!

Hey guys,

I've been requested to do a DIY on the gauge install in my GTT. ill try to include as much info as possible!!

 

BTW i don't take any responsibility for anyone's attempts and if you damage anything you have no one but yourself to blame.

 

Now, We've all seen setups when the aftermarket gauges are just jammed in, honestly that would drive me up the wall. 

To remove the factory gauge cover holder

- pop out center vents located under factory gauges, use a plastic popping tool not a screwdriver. unplug hazard light

- two screws hold the gauge pod in, after undoing these you can lift the unit and you'll find one connector for all three gauges

- on the inside, two screws hold the gauges inside the pod

Once separated this is what you're left with

20151127_171404.jpg

- Remove the 6 screws on the front to take off the plastic cover

20151127_171415.jpg

- I cant remember how many screws hold the actual gauges, remove them all

20151127_171441.jpg

- Now that its separated, this is whats left.

- Next step is to pull the aftermarket gauges apart.

20151127_171505.jpg

These are shadow (defi copy) 60mm

20151127_171515.jpg

- Using a tiny flat blade, had to bend out the bezel edge so the face could be removed

20151127_171532.jpg

Bezel, Glass and gauge pulled apart

60mm gauges are a snug fit, all i did was align, pressure fit all three and hot glue holds it all together

20151127_171643.jpg

20151127_171627.jpg

Power, Earth, ACC and Illumination all can be tapped from original harness from memory 

20151111_224059.jpg

20151127_173356.jpg

To finish it off, i ordered a new plastic face from Nissan. think it was about $40 AUD

Final Assembly!

20160917_164220.thumb.jpg.eddfc7b7808291fe7ee4bf077e797827.jpg 

Enjoy! 

20151108_231803.jpg

Edited by stump_69
  • Like 5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468841-custom-gauge-fit-r34-gtt-only/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...
On 26/06/2019 at 2:29 AM, 25SKY said:

@V28VX37   

16800349258_3aa19cf9c5.jpg                     

im looking to do the same as you, what did you use for a backing / brace to hold them straight and level, also any glue used  ?

any tips, tricks or info would be awesome man 

Hey mate, it's a pretty simple setup really. There's an existing mounting rail that the old TV unit bolted on to - I just made little 'shelf' out of a Bunnings bracket to hook onto that. 
I used some cheapo aftermarket gauge pods with the backs cut off, just taped onto that shelf with double-sided tape from memory.
The triple gauge cluster housing then just sits around the whole set of three gauge pods, and luckily the standard gauge cluster holes are just the right size for the Defi gauges.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...