Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. I came across a set of rims that I really like. So I got just one rim to test fit.

First it's a r33 gtr. They are 18x11 and fits the rear perfectly, but I'll have to roll all the arches. The front looks to need a 1 inch spacer or pretty close to an inch.

This is with the car lifter off the wheels. I'm not planning on the stretch Tire look. I want a 285/30/18 on these wheels.

 

Now that you know the situation. Does anyone know of a brake upgrade that will free up caliper space. The rim has a concave pattern and the more I go out the faster I get more clearance space. But a flatter caliper and bigger rotor will work. Other wise I may do a brake down grade. I hate the thought.

 

Any ideas would be great. Wheels are cheap wheels and only have one offset.

20170224_185224.jpeg20170224_175801.jpeg20170224_175753.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469220-brakes-causing-clearance-issues/
Share on other sites

Mate you're going to spend a lot more than 4 x $189 to 'get these to fit', unless you pick up the angle grinder. Not worth compromising your brakes just to save some money on wheels especially if you have a nice car like the GTR.

Also unless you're already got fully adjustable everything in the suspension (front and rear camber arms, tension arms, traction rods etc.) it's likely you'll have to install those too, to get your alignment anywhere near decent.

As you already know. 324mm rotors with the brembos won't fit, if you went with 350mm rotors they probably still won't fit, but you can try this by spacing the caliper out 25mm and see if it clears the spokes.

Otherwise its spacers time, but if you're like me and don't trust spacers with your life.

It's new wheel time, something genuine, something that will last more than a year and still stay round.

So offset wise the std front Brembos are hitting the spokes of the rim? If they are bloody big 18s I am guessing that radially there is loads of space?

 

If the wheels have a heavy curve to them and by the time the spoke hits the outer rim hub you may get away with running calipers for bigger brakes.  I know there is a big difference in sizes of calipers and IMO you should undo the two bolts that hold the caliper to the hub. With the pads still in wiggled them out so that the pads still bit on the caliper and just pull them out half the pad depth and then try to fit the wheel. If moving the caliper out radially 15-20mm gets you the clearance you need then you can quite easily find a 355-365mm brake setup that uses a caliper that has a slower profile and is more snug to the rotor than the std Brembos

  • Like 1

I see from their website that they are cheap wheels (presumably cast) and come in a range of offsets but maybe you have a second hand set at a cheaper price. Anyway if they had an offset that took them away from the calipers they would stick out more from the guards. Maybe they are not the right design for your car.

ok well they're barely gonna "fit" as it is, let alone spacing anything further. 

if you do get them under the guards with stretched tires excessive camber, no inner guards,  gards rolling, pumping, bashing ect, their gonna ride lie shit, look like ass and will not be worth a 1100 set of wheels.

 

not trying to rag on your car man but i would sell them on and get something thats gonna work.

 

  • Like 1
5 minutes ago, GH05T said:

ok well they're barely gonna "fit" as it is, let alone spacing anything further. 

if you do get them under the guards with stretched tires excessive camber, no inner guards,  gards rolling, pumping, bashing ect, their gonna ride lie shit, look like ass and will not be worth a 1100 set of wheels.

 

not trying to rag on your car man but i would sell them on and get something thats gonna work.

 

Work CR Kiwami, looks tough, is light, won't shatter like glass.

  • Like 1

I used 15mm spacers and worked great. Just got the last 3 rims and tires. Thanks for all the input guys. Spacing the caliper helped a bit, but wasn't enough. I used 15mm spacers and it works. The rear isn't a problem it was the front. These wheels only come in +8 in 18x11 the way i see it is I have 2 option both have spacers involved one a thinner spacer than the other. I have a r32 gtr with 10.5 meister and they did stick out alot but after lowering it and rolling the gaurds it was absolutely perfect. These seems like it's going in the same direction. When I space the caliper out I'll need like a 5mm spacer and that workable. When. The calipers in the original location. I need a 15mm spacer. I made a test spacer and took my coilovers out to jack the wheel up. It looks like my r32 very close but can clear if I roll the gaurds. I will do that soon. I fitted 285/30/18 on this rim today and will test fit this weekend. I'll post photos. As the car in the photo is a customers. I have to roll his gaurds to. Perfect timing.

I might be in for trouble. I'm not scard. Just nervous. Lol. May not work tho. I only have one wheel so far for testing. I see the bigger caliper and smaller spacer working. Inner gaurds I usually use a heat gun and reshape them to fit. Here is a photo of my r32 and at stock high the wheels stuck out 1 inch IMG-20160508-WA0008.jpeg

I'm getting these to work period.
Some guys over here put Cadillac cts calipers on 240sx. I rather that kind of problems. I have a set I bought some time back. And I can try them on this gtr. If it fits s14s then I should be able to fit them on this r33 gtr. There option I just have to work through them inner clears is plenty.

This sounds like the shitest idea ever. U buy a gtr but u want to put some really shit cheap wheels on just coz they r cheap[emoji53]
The amount of ghetto work you are doing to try and get them to fit sounds really unsafe.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...