Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

?? its making 181rwkw hoping the $160 ebay coil packs had something to do with that

IMG_1932.thumb.jpg.4e0b71bdead83de3ac15305e057dad78.jpg

 

All up it cost 13 and no i dont regret it, sadly no eye fillets will be shared just yet you can just wait buddy... but definately enjoying it.

 

 

 

You_Doodle_2017-09-07T13_53_07Z.thumb.jpg.ad497936353c54c20f37e06b911f790f.jpg

 

Ouch on the bill... But credit to you following through/ I still wouldn't suggest it to anybody.

What makes you suspect coil packs? I mean they sound dodgy but nothing wrong with the curve.. The power also sounds right for a de+t. What boost is that? Running E85?

Thats alright m8, eye fillets are over rated. Aged wagyu is where it's @. I feel more like some lobster anyways.  

Credit to you for going through with it and not just talking shit, although you do a fair bit of that too. You're alright Skippy.

 

13k, thats a lot of eye fillet, lobster, abalone, wagyu. You may have to eat baked beans out of a can for the next 6 months to try and let the wallet recover aye...

 

So, how much boost is that for 181kw?

Jesus. Why not put in a stock NEO motor and the same turbo as you've bought?

Then just throw in a set of 1000cc run the stock reg etc.

Would make a healthy 240/250kW on 98RON. 

Its on 10psi boost i beleive but i will have to double check that and not running e85 just yet but that will
Be one of the next upgrades, roughly 300kms to a tank atm [emoji28]
Mi goreng is gonna be my bestfriend for a while by the looks of it haha, once i get lil things done then drop a new motor in hopefully forged and put all parts into that then happy days from there.

You blokes dribble and just about as roudy as kim jong un but i apreciate all the advice given and i definately took it all into count. Cheers guys will keep you updated when i blow the f*kka [emoji14]

It isnt even that bad, all of that is trasnferrable to a DET motor being swapped in place later on if the DE+T does give up.

This just highlights how expensive modding a car turns out to be over time, most people don't do 'everything' all in one hit like that, doing it piece by piece is going to result in much the same cost, minus the Labor charge depending on how much you can DIY.

  • Like 1

Nah definately mishimoto for 359 cant complain with that,

Woah thank you kinkstaah someone that actually understands whats going on here,yes theres a bit of money lost but f**k all and atleast i know what i have, it aint a dirty old flogged out gtt [emoji16]

3 hours ago, skippyyy said:

once i get lil things done then drop a new motor in hopefully forged and put all parts into that then happy days from there.

....why.....why do all this if you're getting a new motor?

I'm sure you're a good bloke mate but you've got rocks in your head. If you want to waste money like that can I please have some? I've got a long list for my car!

  • Like 2

Because why buy a new motor now? Got all the aftermarket parts to chuck in the new motor when i get it, dont see the big rush on getting a motor lmao now or in a years time it would not make a difference to what i have spent on the car already

Oh wells at least he is happy [emoji4]
I'm sure I've done many wrong things too, like mod my shit box.
Should have just bought a 335i E90 BMW for the same money.

Dunno if the BMW is all that great anyway, other than comfort. I had no problem staying with an M4 with tune, tyres, brakes and a very experienced driver. At Phillip island we where separated by a tenth. Long live the shitboxes. My whole car with mods doesn't owe me much more than what Skippy spent in the last few weeks.

Enjoy the mi goreng Skippy[emoji12]
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...