Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What is the power range you want, and your setup etc?  It's hard for anyone to tell you which is better suited when you've mentioned two turbos which flow different to each other.  I'm personally not a huge fan of either in the current market, much better options for what both can do out there now.

The power range id like, would be around 350kw and at the moment the upgrades are, 750cc injectors, link G4 ecu, front facing plenum, 6 boost manifold and so forth, if there is a better turbo that is more suited for the type of set up I’m after, which would be more street but occasionally track.

Edited by Fr3akyR33

Ah that makes life simpler.  On 98 octane?   I can say straight out, a GT4088R is overkill for that power... though these days a GT4088R is pretty much pointless in every way unless you are pretty much given it.

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 2

For simplicity go internal.

External means you'll need a new manifold, dump pipe, wastegate, plumbing so on and so forth.  To go drive in drive out with a new external gated turbo you're probably talking $6k including turbo.  To do it internal you're looking at half that including turbo. (That's JUST to buy the turbo and have it fitted - NOTHING ELSE)

Note, you're going to need a hell of a lot more than just a turbo to hit your power goal.

350kw is going to be a $10k-$15k spend.

Turbo

Cooler

Injectors

ECU

Exhaust

Coilpacks

Clutch

AFM

Filter

Fuel pump

Fitting parts

Tuning

 

I suggest you stop worrying about specifics, ie. which turbo, and spend the next 6 months reading and researching these forums as to what you're getting yourself into.  It's clear you have absolutely no idea so you need to research like a madman.

Start researching for a well regarded workshop near you who you will get to do the actual work and then work with them, as well as what you can learn here, and start buying all the pieces you'll need to complete the jigsaw (after lots of research).  If you rush into it and start hanging all sorts of random shit off your engine, you'll end up spending $25k and you'll get a shit outcome.  Research, patience and knowledge is your friend.

 

Seriously for what you want just shove a gtx3071, a good exhaust and intake, a good cooler, a fuel system to feed and an ecu to control it and a clutch to hold it

and if it's a 33 engine save some money for a bottom end cause it'll hurt a rod eventually 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

If it is purely for street use and not used in a competitive motorsports environment, then 300kW is plenty for a car with basic suspension modifications (i.e. a set of coilovers) and the factory LSD.

270~300kW is very achievable with a small budget and will be "fast" enough and "fun" enough.

Once you start go to beyond that, expenditure increases exponentially where as before that it is linear some what lol.

Hypergear ATRG3SAT would easily do that on 98RON and give you a bit of headroom in future if you ever decide to spray some WMI or go E85.

Another question before you start throwing out turbo makes/models etc. is when you want the turbo to come? yes any big turbo can "make" the numbers you want but when is another question?

No point slapping a biggish turbo on your car to make only 300kW and have it come on late - very american mentality. "oh be dayem, it makes 500hp on a mustang dyno, and I dont' mind the lag because I'm american"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...