Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have ordered new o2 sensor and coolant sensor, I get terrine fuel economy and a miss I'm idle so it's on its way out, and have ordered coolant temp sensor. I don't know for sure it's but the car never gets to operating temp on the dash dial. It sits a 8 o'clock sorta angle. What I read was that the coolant temp sensor can cause the huge regarding of the vct and running rich because it thinks the engine may be over hearing as sorta protective mode. I had intermittent check engine light when engine would ping hasn't pinged since new coil packs however. So from what I hear it is pre ignition will update once I install the new sensors holding for the best

  • 9 months later...

Hey, sorry to bump an old topic but I didn't want to create a new one as this is very similar to the issue i'm having.

Curious if your repairs sorted out your issue? I've replaced coils, plugs, soldered the MAF and fixed a vacuum leak but my car still doesnt like revving past 5k once its hot. Doesnt matter what gear, can even be neutral. Just breaks up like crazy :(

It reaches full boost well below 4k(got the restrictor bypassed) and holds fine until 5k. It also does it even if i just use partial throttle, so I dont think fuel or boost leak is the issue. Its running the stock original fuel pump but I can smell lots of fuel when It does it in neutral.

 

i'm wondering if my MAF just isnt any good. Or for some reason its not getting sufficient spark. I'll have to re-check my plugs and maybe swap a known good MAF. It just started all of a sudden. It ran mint up until a few weeks ago.

 

Edit: i'll check out the ECT sensor. My gauge reads fine and dandy as always but ya never know!

Edited by Ryno34
  • 2 months later...

It seems fine in all weather until it gets to operating temp. Even once warm it still idles and drives fine. It’s just when I try to put any power down above 4k rpm it sputters and pops like crazy. It’s frustrating not being able to use the fun half of the rev range haha

 

Edit: It also does it if I bring the revs up slowly, and does it in neutral. Boost is good until 4k. Then it obviously starts dropping as the engine starts to misfire.

I tried pushing to redline the one time and it just wouldnt make it past 5500. The cloud of smoke behind the car was rediculous haha so its getting fuel. It holds max boost until it starts to misfire so I can only assume its not a boost issue(maybe i’m wrong?).

 

i dunno. Cars....

Edited by Ryno34
21 minutes ago, Ryno34 said:

It seems fine in all weather until it gets to operating temp. Even once warm it still idles and drives fine. It’s just when I try to put any power down above 4k rpm it sputters and pops like crazy. It’s frustrating not being able to use the fun half of the rev range haha

That sounds just like the problem i am javing mate.  Mine runs prefect when cold and as soon as it gets to op temp the boost wont kick in till about 3k rpm and then after 4k rpm it pops and cuts in and out. 

I have tried new spitfire coils and plugs gapped to 0.8mm, manual boost controller and redoing vac lines and its still doing it

Could be fuel related. But it seems odd that it would be fine (did a 7krpm pull) without issue when it was just below its normal operating temp on the gauge(I know, I know, just wanted to test).

 

i also find if I sit in traffic for a while on a hot day, the rpm at which it starts acting up drops significantly. Like the one day I was in stop and go and it was doing it at around 3000rpm.  Almost like something is getting heaksoaked. It feels like weak soark/coils but i’ve tried two sets of coils and plugs lol

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...