Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I’m after some r35 coils for my rb26 my question is will the standard 35 coils fit under the valley cover or will I have to purchase ones that are shorter.

 

I know there are kits available I just want to make sure the standard size will fit?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472836-r35-coils-for-rb/
Share on other sites

The factory R35 coils will not fit under the coil cover.

However......NZEFI make a kit using R35/VQ coils that are modified to fit under the covers, it’s yet to be put on the website but is available 

flick me a email at [email protected] for a pic if you like

  • Thanks 1

As mentioned, R35 GTR kits for RB's are on the very near horizon.

Seems Yaris coils have come and gone. Lots of people (SR20 land) are questioning how good they are long term, kind of underlying the whole "This is a Yaris part" worry that people had. People are much happier to put R35 GTR parts in for very similar cash.

3 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

As mentioned, R35 GTR kits for RB's are on the very near horizon.

Seems Yaris coils have come and gone. Lots of people (SR20 land) are questioning how good they are long term, kind of underlying the whole "This is a Yaris part" worry that people had. People are much happier to put R35 GTR parts in for very similar cash.

 

Yaris coils are the same excellent Denso parts (give or take slightly different size and shape) as all the other Toyota engines' coils, such as 2JZ.  Denso coils are v. v. good.

Edited by GTSBoy
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Yuh, and that's all good.....but those coils are not as punchy as the more modern pencil coils.  If you need an upgrade, then OEM Nissan coils are not the answer.  Yaris/etc coils are similarly cheap.  Just takes a little more effort to fit them up. 

Sorry, that is a typo.. should say "R35 Coils"

22448-JF00B is the OEM R35 nissan coil part number.

8 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

Sorry, that is a typo.. should say "R35 Coils"

22448-JF00B is the OEM R35 nissan coil part number.

Are the plugs the same as the R34 coils'?  If so, that's a bit more convenient.  Only need to do a mounting plate and shorter boots.  Saves wiring changes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...