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rat32r

140A alternators kit for rbs

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Would it be possible to see a pic of an RB spec Mitsubishi Alternator next to the LS Mitsy one please .
I'm very interested in this kit but just curious to see if the LS one is larger in diameter compared to the Nissan supplied one .
Mine would be for an R33 spec RB25DET .
Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

IMG_5045.jpgIMG_5047.jpg

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Mr Billtech?

Mr Billtech uses my kits but I am not him even though we are both named Andrew. Does that answer your question

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14 hours ago, rat32r said:


Mr Billtech uses my kits but I am not him even though we are both named Andrew. Does that answer your question

hahaha yeah man!

For a second though you were him - top bloke, always hires out his dyno for me to tune shit boxes

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hahaha yeah man!
For a second though you were him - top bloke, always hires out his dyno for me to tune shit boxes

All good man, Billtech is a top bloke and good at what he does.

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Got my kit this week and fit it all up. Nice bit of gear and very easy to put on. Can't wait to test it out on my new setup!

k9IM9pW.jpg

vZ3QH5n.jpg

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I was looking at my alternator wiring last night, and saw that at least on my R34 GTT there are two small white wires from the positive coming out of the alternator going into the fuse-box to an 80A fuse there (Looks like a PAL fuse?).

This would obviously need to be replaced with larger wiring with a larger alternator, and the fuse replaced with a larger one.  Is that what others have done for their larger alternators, or have people simply been wiring it straight to the battery, and bypassing the factory fusing, etc?

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I'm getting alternator envy, running 3x pumps at the moment lol.. 

What alternator are you running?
What's your voltage at peak rpm ?

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2 minutes ago, rat32r said:


What alternator are you running?
What's your voltage at peak rpm ?

I have a 90AMP circuit sports alternator, and at voltage drops a bit at mid RPM, falls to aboout 13.2V then makes it way up again to 13.8V.

I do have 2x of the pumps setup on 2x SSRs and they're controlled by PWM based on manifold pressure (to keep both fuel cool, and voltage stable-ish).

Looks like I might "want" to upgrade soon.. not need though :D 

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Hey mate,
Do you do a set inc the alternator?
Price shipped to AKL NZ please(AUD)?
Thank you!

Hi yes I can send to NZ.
You can SMS me on
+61417677905 or
Email clockworkcustoms@yahoo.com.au
Or find me on face book
Andrew Cwc Hoareau
To work out the shipping cost etc..

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I have a 90AMP circuit sports alternator, and at voltage drops a bit at mid RPM, falls to aboout 13.2V then makes it way up again to 13.8V.
I do have 2x of the pumps setup on 2x SSRs and they're controlled by PWM based on manifold pressure (to keep both fuel cool, and voltage stable-ish).
Looks like I might "want" to upgrade soon.. not need though  

Sounds about right, seen voltage like that on most factory setups,
FYI
Ls1 alternator gets 14.5v to 14.2v all the way to redline.
Bit extra voltage for you pumps, coil packs heaps a lot.
And if your running A Agm battery you need 14.2 to charge it correctly.

Buy the way I like that you are using ssr

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I was looking at my alternator wiring last night, and saw that at least on my R34 GTT there are two small white wires from the positive coming out of the alternator going into the fuse-box to an 80A fuse there (Looks like a PAL fuse?).
This would obviously need to be replaced with larger wiring with a larger alternator, and the fuse replaced with a larger one.  Is that what others have done for their larger alternators, or have people simply been wiring it straight to the battery, and bypassing the factory fusing, etc?

When upgrading alternator I do suggest adding another power cable inline as factory system as you pointed out has a fuse 80 on Gts-t and run through a larger spade terminal at the fuses boa the gets real tired, especially in a r32 Gts-t, r32 gtr runs twin terminal to spread the load.

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On 4/5/2018 at 7:49 PM, rat32r said:

FYI ls1 alternator p/n
GM#92058857. (140Amp)
Mitsubishi #A3TA7991 (140A)
Bosch #BXM131E. (140A)
Power master #4/58203 ( 200A)
These are the best but there are cheaper aftermarket ls1 alternator just check eBay
 

Which would say is the best(most reliable)? Also, any issue using a cheaper aftermarket one, except probably durability? Thanks 

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Which would say is the best(most reliable)? Also, any issue using a cheaper aftermarket one, except probably durability? Thanks 

My personal car runs The Mitsubishi alternator, made in Japan, OEM on all Holden ls1 engines. All others I have seen not including powermaster but they might be, are made in China.
It's a personal choice but as my favourite saying goes. The poor man pays twice
  • Thanks 1

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