Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET Neo heater hoses

CRSKmD

By CRSKmD,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

CRSKmD Proficient

CRSKmD

Posted
Posted

Not sure if correct place admin please move if needed.

Half way through a RB25DET neo into R32 swap and needing to replace the heater and other hoses.

from what i can gather the RB25DET Neo heater hoses are what i need but please correct me if i am wrong.

apart from OEM what options are out there. i have found Misc eBay ones mainly listing RB26 or R33 25
and JJR do not list a Neo kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473290-rb25det-neo-heater-hoses/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I don't remember the details, but I just cut the R32 ones and used size-changing joiners to connect them to the appropriate points on the back end of the inlet manifold/water log stuff.  The R32/RB20 stuff is different sized to the R34/Neo hoses, so you can't just get Neo hoses and use them (and they go to the wrong spot on the firewall anyway, I think).

Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

This is the list of numbers I used for replacing all of the rubber hoses in my engine bay, I added some metal pipes in there too, you can ignore those.

K5qAzpE.png

I used this website/diagram to get part codes/numbers

http://www.jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=81&cartype=12&fig=211

Hope this helps!

  • Thanks 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

First image is original R32 heater hoses coming out of firewall and going behind head.  Note that the RB25DET Neo steel heater pipes have been removed from the back of the head.  (Ignore the small hose mixed up with it - it's my current attempt to stop smurf jizz spoogin all over my parking spots.

WP_20180209_11_26_01_Pro.thumb.jpg.6ceaea28724f5fbbb54432a31bba8011.jpg

Second image is same R32 heater hoses seen from other side of head.  Retains the original R32 bleeder point (just under the brake pipe you can see on lower edge of photo).  If you look down next to the clutch master, where the brake pipe bends under it, you can see the hose clamps that show where I have the size reducing joiners.  I cut the R32 hoses here, put the joiners in and also cut back the RB25 hoses coming off the head/water log/block (wherever they each came from).

WP_20180209_11_26_32_Pro.jpg.83e8ca4640dff665d8af4eb7db0fc79d.jpg

The last photo shows same thing from forward of the clutch master.  The bit of heater hose with the dried green smurf spoof is the RB25 heater hose and you can see its hose clamp onto the engine side connection behind that bit of loom.

WP_20180209_11_26_45_Pro.jpg.8517831ddec3cf4d94c0a0a92bd90bf4.jpg

 

  • 2 weeks later...
CRSKmD Proficient

CRSKmD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 minutes ago, GeeDog said:

Did you get this sorted? I've found the body side heater hoses off my R33, and I'm in Adelaide. They are 19mm / 3/4" ID, and appear to be in good condition. Removed cause track car.

20180219_180426.thumb.jpg.52d74c1e362a353499c680fd107e4bdc.jpg

I went away so this is still a future me problem. 

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...