Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 25gt or 25gt-t?

Jhare413
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jhare413 Explorer

Jhare413

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I’m fairly new to the skyline scene, but looking to buy an r34. 

My plan is to eventually upgrade to a larger turbo, maybe make 400-500 hp. 

Is it worth paying the extra $5000? for a gtt if I am going to redo the turbo system anyway.

I understand that there are other upgrades in the gtt, but I am not sure exactly what. 

I am not sure how much more expensive it is to turbo the gt model, compared to upgrading the turbo system in the gtt

Cheers,

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473512-r34-25gt-or-25gt-t/
Share on other sites
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

  • Like 2
Gymkhana Enthusiast

Gymkhana

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

Agree with your points although buying someone elses 500hp car is not always the best option. I'd rather a stock/fairly stock and do all the work myself, that's half the fun of having a project car isn't it? Building it to where you want it to be as well as the fact you know the car has probably been thrashed already if it has 500hp.

Edited by Gymkhana
  • Like 1
Jhare413 Explorer

Jhare413

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

Cheers for the help man, kinda figured this would be the case; but didn't know there were that many differences.

  • Like 1
Jhare413 Explorer

Jhare413

Posted
  • Author
Posted
38 minutes ago, Gymkhana said:

Agree with your points although buying someone elses 500hp car is not always the best option. I'd rather a stock/fairly stock and do all the work myself, that's half the fun of having a project car isn't it? Building it to where you want it to be as well as the fact you know the car has probably been thrashed already if it has 500hp.

Yea for sure, definitely going to buy a fairly stock car, looking to keep this as a project car for the next couple of years at least

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted
On ‎10‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 6:38 PM, Jhare413 said:

Yea for sure, definitely going to buy a fairly stock car, looking to keep this as a project car for the next couple of years at least

Only trouble with that is you lose your social life, own 2 pair of jeans [one with holes in the knees] and around 4 or 5 cheap T shirts with grease spots and welding/grinding holes in them and you live on noodles or cuppa soups cos you have nil time and $$$ to waste on food or clothes when there are important things like manifolds and turbo's to buy.

BTW....I have a THAT wardrobe, but my diet has progressed a little bit :) to include meat etc

Oh and get used to your gf/wife/partner rolling their eyes

But its all a journey...good luck man.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

People forget that buying a finished project car isn't missing out of the fun of a project car.

The "fun" of a project car is keeping it running and trying to use it. There's more work in keeping it running than there EVER is in building it.

Buy Jussi's car and be happy
/Thread

  • Like 2
DatsunBanana Enthusiast

DatsunBanana

Posted
Posted

I don't think anyone's pointed out yet that the power you can get from a genuine DET will always be more and easier than from a DE+t. So if you have a particular power figure in mind you might only have one choice really.

I've done the DE+t and the sense of satisfaction is pretty awesome. I'd have had to wait a lot longer to buy a GTT and the moment might have just slipped away. Keep saving and watch the prices rise. My budget would probably have got me a GTST at the time but I wanted the R34. It might have been non-turbo for a few years but at least I was driving it. I gradually did the supporting mods - brakes, suspension etc.  before the turbo conversion. If you're ok with spanners it's not hard, not particularly time consuming and not that expensive if you're patient about looking for good deals.

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

 

2 hours ago, DatsunBanana said:

...
Keep saving and watch the prices rise. 
...

Perhaps in the UK but certainly not in Aus or NZ :)

The cheapest GTT right now on CarSales is AU$8k. TradeMe has one with a 26 in it for NZ$10k...

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...